Saturday, August 6, 2011

Things I love this summer (part 1)

Just a few things, most of them old 're-finds'. And the Nivea chapstick!

Make Up Store Microshadow in Ghetto 

The best eye/brow shadow ever, pigmented and LARGE. It comes at a fraction of the price you'd normally pay for a MAC one. Too bad I expect the brand to be available in Sweden only...
It's very soft and natural, the color is fantastic for brows, as eyeliner (i don't use black...) or as a plain matte eyeshadow. I'd compare it to MAC's Espresso, only with fewer 'red' undertones (from the chocolate tint that one has). It's perfect! 
Make Up Store 'Ghetto' microshadow


I got this amount of product by only touching the pan- it's really pigmented and a little goes a very, very long way. Very soft, yet not silky- it doesn't pick up too much on the brush or gets dusty once you swirl the brush in the pan.

This is MAC Espresso:
Stars'n Rockets blog 
Looks lighter in the pan but the orange undertones are far stronger. Espresso on the brows:

You either must have a light hand, light eyebrows (mousy blonde) or mix it with something ashy...I can't see how otherwise. Anyways, the product is very popular so I can't say it isn't good at what it does, it's just that sometimes one can find 'better dupes' at lower prices. That's my opinion. 

Helena Rubinstein Illumination Loose Powder



The best powder, loose or pressed, I have ever used (notice how little I have left :( ).  Did my friend's makeup on her wedding day and she looked spectacular. The powder illuminates the skin, sets the makeup and doesn't make your skin look cracked...which is a first. It's translucent but it has some tonality, available in 5 shades (I think). On the website it says it's enriched with 'optical pearlisers' for a glowy and healthy effect. It really works wonders, I suggest everyone to try and get their hands on a sample..I use it in nr 05 Light, and had it in 02 as well but gave that one away since it was too rosy for my skintone. 

Nivea Fruity Shine chapstick in Strawberry


The effect after wiping the lips
Very hard to find (Cherry, Honey and Classic are always on the shelves, not this baby). I adore the tint it gives the lips, very natural yet 'blushed', just like a strawberry. It's very hard to find a lipstick/lipgloss that would mimic the color of strawberries since they are all either cold-toned (fuchsia pinks) or orange/scarlet..which isn't bad, but I wanted something strawberry-ish! 

Been cruising makeup stores and supermarket aisles for ever until I saw this baby right by the cashier's...hello lover! I absolutely love the texture, the color, the scent (it has a pleasant taste as well, no plastic-bad blueberry juice like every other 'fruity' lipgloss/chapstick has), the smoothness and the hydrating effect. Comes with an SPF of 10 as well.

It's not extremely cheap, but not expensive either, so if you just want gorgeous lips without all the fuss, I suggest this product, combined with a lipliner (currently using Rimmel's East End Snob and Lancome's Caramel). It's going to be gorgeous and very Lolita-esque (kissed lips!), and it's REALLY pigmented for a chapstick (more pigmented than a lipgloss, obviously less color than with a lipstick). 

Maybelline Super Stay 24h Concealer


I use it as an eyelid primer and it works wonders, my makeup doesn't budge. I got the wrong shade (03, the darkest beige) which is too yellow for me so I can't really use it under the eyes. It's also a bit drying, which makes it a perfect tool to hide some blemishes. I probably shouldn't be using it on the eyelids, but they tend to get oily so I guess the dry effect cancels itself during the day...great eyeshadow primer

Veet Warm Wax



This is great for summer. I'll tell you why:

-I always wax my upper lip. The tiniest hair will get stuck in foundation and the more, the merrier- you end up looking like you have a mustache. If you're a brunette, even worse. I think every woman should wax their upper lip...the hair will not grow stronger or darker, but weaker and slower since you're yanking it out from its root and not only cutting off its surface. But that's just my take on the issue. However, girls with bleached facial hair look horrifying..so I personally suggest what my beautician said, just wax it...in two years maximum it won't grow back at all. 

-Bikini lines, especially if you're going to the seaside: salted water, chlorine and all those substances are known to irritate the hell out of the delicate skin or the upper thighs/bikini lines/inner thighs. If you're going on holiday and you're planning on shaving, think about the fact that if you're going straight into the water, you'll come out full of red dots; if you wait for a day (I tried waiting for 8 hours, didn't work), the hair is going to start growing back though it's (yet) unnoticeable. By this stage you can feel it already so no silk smooth legs. So you have to do it over and over again. Not nice. 

I strongly suggest girls, especially brunettes, to wax, since it's a healthy and perfect method of getting rid of body/face hair without paying a ton of $ if you can't afford laser/pulsed light/whatever else there is out there. I never shave on my upper legs/inner thighs/bikini, for fear of ingrown hairs (that always pop up when you go on holiday..especially when you swim/sweat) which look horrible in that area.

This wax is great because:

-it's not real bees wax. It's a combination of sugars and other substances that make it not that sticky as bees wax, easier to handle, with a higher boiling point (so you don't get burned as easily if you're a novice). 

-it does a great job at removing unwanted hair, from the thickest to peach fuzz. Really good for sensitive skin (me and some of my friends have been using this on the face as well with no problems whatsoever).

-it's hydrosoluble, which means it dissolves in water. Any drops/spots/traces can be cleaned really easily and fast.

-comes with a set of reusable strips (since it's hydrosoluble, you just let the used strips in water and in 20 mins they're ready to be dried and used again). 

-comes with a cute thermo sensitive applicator that 'tells' you when it's too hot or good to use

- if you're handy enough, you can apply it in a thicker layer (it doesn't crack no matter for how long you leave it on the skin, unlike bees wax that starts chipping if left for more than 2-3 mins) and then yank it with your fingers if you wanna save the product (of course, if you're waxing fuzz). 

-you can warm in it in the microwave. Super fast and easy!


Summer foundations


Nivea Beauty Lift, Vichy Normaderm and Estee Lauder Double Wear. Because they're so resistant and don't budge in heat/water/sweat etc. Will review the Normaderm very soon! 


Chanel Vitalumiere Satin Smoothing Creme Makeup Review


I'm finally back on track with a wonderful product I've been wanting to review for ever, since it's less popular than the 'classic' Chanel Vitalumiere, which I tried and didn't love. Not the case with this one. 

Price: I was fortunate enough not to pay anything for this baby since I got it as a present from a friend. I guess the price is around $ 50, which isn't cheap at all. However, there are some props with this specific type of foundation which clearly make up for the bucks you pay.

Packaging: I really like it, but it's not ergonomic. The squared glass jar looks beautifully, very retro for a foundation since it doesn't come in the typical bottle with a pump. I like this packaging more than anything else, regardless of the fact that it's a pain to carry it around for touch ups. The thing is...you don't need any with this baby.


Shades: It comes in 9 shades, beautifully pigmented and extremely realistic. I've always praised other foundations, especially my beloved Estee Laude Double Wear, for their pigmentation, coverage, endurance, etc, but none comes close when it comes to shades and their adaptability. Most of the shades available on the European/US markets are beige-toned, and the ones catering to rosier complexions are demure and very skin-like. I have mine in 20 Clair, and had the classic Vitalumiere foundation (the one in the bottle) in 30 Cendre (I think it was 'Shell' in English). They are pretty much the same thing- the same undertone basis, the exact same 'color', Clair being a little bit lighter than Cendre. Very nicely executed replica, since it's quite difficult to find consecutive shades that are really a scale and not a pallet. 

I think Clair suits anyone with a lighter complexion- NW 20-30, even 35 (in summer, when tanned), or NC 20-25. It has beige undertones but neither orange nor yellow, just 'cream'. 

Another huge prop of this foundation (perhaps given by its consistency as well as the shade's potential) is the chromatic adaptability- it doesn't suit my skin 100% (what foundation does it to the degree of perfect?), but it manages to blend in perfectly to the point where I can't tell where I have applied it and if I need to blend it in my neck/hairline. Awesome. This is prop number 2, it's never happened to me before, with any other foundation, not to this degree. Really impressed by it. 

Consistency: creamy. Like a face cream, think Nivea Visage. Doesn't run, doesn't dry up fast. It's really beautiful to look at, since it gives the impression of a luxurious product.

Honestly, that's all you need for half a face. I was very surprised since this foundation is identical in terms of consistency with Nivea Beauty Lift, but seems to 'multiply itself' when applied. 
I did my makeup using a normal foundation brush, as opposed to Chanel's brush indicated on their website (big surprise, right). It worked wonders. 

I've always been the eye-rolling one while reading hundreds of reviews where the ladies praised various foundations, or even makeup brushes, claiming it cuts back on the quantity they use. In my case, I need two pumps on average, and another extra half pump for the undereye area and various spots/discolorations. With this foundation, I can happily say I have entered that 'I Only Need a Little' category.

Application: Smooth like nothing else, it works beautifully with anything- fingers, sponges, flat brushes, kabuki brushes (when I'm in a hurry), even with my stubborn Sephora #44 stippling brush, and I never got that one to work with anything, EVER. I guess it's the consistency combined with the strong pigmentation that allows for such a small quantity and a beautiful finish. I prefer using it with a flat brush, because I don't like getting my fingers dirty, and a sponge would suck up too much product. I also like the dewy finish, which doesn't quite happen when a sponge is involved.


Coverage: Five stars. The foundation is allegedly medium coverage, I find it to be full. Without the mask effect. No pores, no lines, no caking up. It's creamy and allows for building it up in as many layers as you please, without getting messy if used on primer, anti-shine gels, even powder. It's simply wonderful. 

Below are some photos taken at various moments of the day, with or without flash, in natural shade or lighting. 
Natural light, at noon, just blush on the cheeks (no powder)
Natural light, in shade, right after application (nothing else on top)
Natural light, opposing the sun (that's why my skin looks reddish), after 5 hours of dancing. Concealer under the eyes and a bit of blush on the cheeks. No powder on the face (just the hairline and lower chin).

Finish: Four stars. It has a very dewy finish than can feel oily, but it looks glowy. It usually happens the other way around with everything else I ever tried- you get an oil slick on your face while the product claims 'glowiness from within'. My skin is mixed, and I wore this in the middle of July for a wedding- it lasted beautifully throughout the night, with a bit of powder (Chanel pressed powder, review coming up very soon) applied mostly on the hairline and around the mouth (dancing and eating involved, thus extra measures had to be taken). It doesn't melt, it doesn't get cakey or sticky if you sweat (especially on the forehead or nose), and it doesn't stain. If you set it with a bit of powder, then you have an 8 hour guarantee. It also has an SPF of 15 and photographs beautifully.
In shadow, no flash light, after 8 hours.  
Right after the application, natural light, facing the window :) Just concealer (Clinique) under the eyes and blush.

However, it depends from complexion to complexion. My friend (the one who gave it to me) has tried it herself and cannot understand why I like it- on her skin it gets messy, gunky and basically dissolves in tiny balls around her cheeks and nose. She has normal skin with a bit of dryness- so she's the perfect choice for this foundation, according to the manufacturer. Many reviews warn about this foundation and oily complexions, and praise it as being the Holy Grail of dry or more mature skins. In her case, it just didn't work out, so the only flaw (and a major one) would be that it's a trial and error issue...which doesn't come in super handy when you have to pay $50 for the bottle. 

Overall: A fantastic product I intend to use for special occasions only. A little goes a long way, so those special occasions might come up every day. Since it's so pricy, I'll just use it wisely. Definitely going to repurchase this and not the typical Vitalumiere, which was a disappointment.

A short comparison between the Chanel Vitalumiere Creme Makeup and the Chanel Vitalumiere Fluid Makeup


-identical shades

-three of four times more coverage of the Creme v. the Fluid

-better finish of the Creme. The Fluid gets soaked in, looks very good and natural but tends to disappear around 3 hours after the application unless heavily set with powder. You need much more Fluid to cover what the Creme does with the tiniest amount

-endurance- the Fluid doesn't last nearly as long as the Creme. I'd say 3 hours v. 8-10 hours.

-the Fluid has a definite advantage in the packaging department; however, I'd rather carry a bulky bottle or depot it in something else than getting stuck with the Fluid. After all, it's about different densities of the products- that's why the 30 g of the Creme beats the 30 ml of the Fluid.

-the Creme will last you many months, daily use, while the Fluid lasts several weeks i assume (I returned mine after two uses, which amounted to 8 pumps. Ouch). You're not paying for water after all (70% of the Fluid) but for something more consistent (Creme).

-the finish is identical, minus the 'sleaking' part the Fluid has. They both look the same when applied, but the actual effect is different with the Creme.

I strongly, strongly recommend this foundation if you like the classic Vitalumiere, it's the same thing only ten times better. 

Saturday, May 21, 2011

HAIR. Mine.

Didn't quite know how to spin this- hair care? products? it's nothing spectacular, since I'm definitely not a hair freak, no new avant-garde products to talk about, just current stuff I am using, why am I happy with it, the hair trimming ritual and how to get over (or not) the innate fear of the overzealous hairdresser. 

In my humble opinion, the perfect hair looks like this:


It's not too big, not too flat, looks healthy, the color isn't too light or too dark, hence increased color-wise manageability (easy to darken/lighten), the texture is wonderful, looks glossy without appearing too fake or oily, and the waves are just delicious. 

I have that hair. Long, thick, naturally shiny, and a tad longer at its present state. However, my biggest problem comes from two sources, one, that I've been coloring it for years and I'm currently engaged in the tantalizing process of 'waiting' for my hair to grow 'out', since I truly want to go back to my natural color (which would look amazing with some highlights....), and second, the shape. I have 'long' hair, quite shapeless...and since I'm not Cheryl Cole, I can't afford a stylist to take care of it on a daily basis and give it that wonderful shape that can be molded into a thousand new looks. So I have to do it myself. Which is quite a chore. 

I've recently embarked into a 'save my hair' routine that I intend to stick to, and find myself quite comfortable with. 

Shampoo:


Dove Intense Repair (Damage Therapy) Micro Serum Shampoo

A ton of reviews on Makeup Alley. Some of them will deem this shampoo controversial, since it apparently caused hair loss (!!) and changes of color (???). I have absolutely no idea if those claims are simply bamboozled or they actually happened, however, I tend to go with hail Dove every time I purchase one of their products. I have always trusted their stuff for several reasons- they don't engage in glossy, over the top advertising, because they don't need to. Their 'real women' campaign isn't the brightest out there, I have to admit, but the overall quality of their products is legendary, at least in my case. I first fell in love with Dove when I started using their classic soap, in both solid and liquid form. The stuff is simply the best soap out there and I feel more comfortable using it on my face than any other specifically created 'miracle' gel/wash/lotion out there. I also find it extremely delicate and much less harsher than baby washes, soaps and gels. Enough with the soap already. 

The shampoo, well, does what it says it will. Cleans very gently and leaves hair incredibly soft. The scent is milky yet clean, the classic slightly powdered Dove scent. It lathers well, cleans very well, doesn't strip my hair of its natural moisture and even right after shampooing, before applying conditioner, when I usually have very coarse, dry hair waiting to be soaked in some form of nourishment, I just don't get this feeling. 

It's not expensive, the packaging is clean and neutral, easy to find in all drugstores and beauty supply shops, it feels like I'm washing my hair with a darn efficient conditioner. Highly recommended. 

Claims to improve overall hair elasticity and condition by actually repairing split ends and other damage, preventing new hairs from deteriorating and dramatically decrease hair breakage by guaranteeing five times less split ends. The version I use, purchased in Europe, is based on the Fibre Actives technology plus the Micro Moisture Serum. I think my hair actually deserves this pampering. Have used it twice only so far, with actual results. It didn't patch up my split ends (yet), but it did leave my hair softer and a tad easier to manage. No more massive tangling, which i guess is the main culprit for hair breakage. 


Hair conditioner/mask/treatment:


I don't condition anymore but use a hair treatment and a mask every time I was my hair. Decided it was time to do so after watching AllThatGlitters21's Youtube hair routine and noticed she's doing the same thing to prevent her new hair extensions from deteriorating. Very good idea, especially if your hair is coarse, relaxed, recently permed or damaged from chemical treatments and extensive dying. 
I am currently using, and have been, for about two months, Aussie's Take the Heat 3-Minute Miracle treatment, combined with L'Oreal's Elvive/Elseve Anti-Breakage hair mask. I sometimes use one of them only, alternating with each wash, or both at the same time. 

I have to say the Aussie treatment hasn't been as efficient as their classic 3 Minute Miracle; the 'take the heat' part must have implied a change in formulation that my hair doesn't necessarily benefit from. It does protect from heat, my hair remaining glossy even after using a hot iron/straightener, however it hasn't improved softness, strength or aspect in general.

I prefer L'Oreal's mask, as strange as it might seem, given the fact that it's a drugstore product that costs much less than the Aussie one (5 or 6 € as opposed to 17 €). I like that my hair feels instantly softer the moment I apply the mask, is less tangled, smells divinely (citrusy fresh, yet creamy, not overbearing at all) and is left considerably softer. The mask is also thicker than the Aussie treatment, which allows for more uses, though they are both 200 ml versions. 

Serum:



Alternating between L'Oreal Liss Ultime Reflexium Thermo Soothing Oil (for use with heated styling tools) and Biosilk Silk Therapy serum. I like them both, I actually have to favor L'Oreal once again. The texture is considerably lighter than the Silk Therapy one, less sticky and heavy, the scent is more pleasant (vanilla and flowers, as opposed to the old lady rose perfume Biosilk has), and the manageability of the hair is superior. Once again, I strongly believe the Biosilk serum is a treatment, and should be used as such, as opposed to the L'Oreal one which is designed for more frequent use. 

However, the best thing that's every worked for my hair, in the serum department, was a product from the Swedish brand Björn Axen. 

It worked as everything my hair needed, all rolled into one- heat protective serum, shine serum, smoothing and anti-frizz, color conditioner and, most important of all, reconstructor for damaged hair. I still haven't found something to replace it, given the fact that it was the second thing (after scissors) that really worked on getting me rid of damaged ends (I don't know how it worked, perhaps it contains silicone, or something else, I couldn't care less since it did much more than what it claimed). However, I am currently abroad with no chance of purchasing it, so I am going to use my current stash and then get my hands on it the moment I get back to Sweden. Highly, highly recommended. 


Hair tools:


Boar bristle brush- the best of the best. The natural boar bristles really untangle my long, thick hair without breaking it, they remove excess oil and distribute it along the entire length of my tresses, lifting any buildup while massaging the scalp. Easy to clean, gentle (stay away from metal bristle brushes....not to mention the plastic ones, those are the worst), a true miracle worker. I have two large brushes I use simultaneously; though it's common knowledge one mustn't brush wet hair since it's prone to breakage, I have to say on my wet hair, these brushes have worked more efficiently than the Tangle Teezer, with no hair damage at all. 

Straightener- I am using a common, (white) ceramic hair straightener purchased online from a British company; I think it has a 'girly' name, however it was embossed on the box and not on the tool itself; it's of medium width, which I find to be perfect for my hair, and it can also be used for curling since it has rounded edges. Not planning on buying a new one anytime soon. 

Hair curler- my good ol' Remington. Planning on getting a new one since the barrel isn't as large as I'd like, nowadays I'm in the mood for large romantic curls. However, I'm kinda undecided since my hair texture prevents defined curls to stay intact no matter how much hairspray I use. 


Blow drying- Currently, none. Given the warm weather I usually prefer to let my hair dry naturally during summers, which makes a difference. I was surprised (should say appalled) when I noticed blow drying my hair didn't cause dryness or split ends as it happens with the majority; instead, it made my hair frail and contributed to minor hair loss. Ever since I stopped using the blow dryer my hair isn't smoother, or un-frizzed (though has less volume and good shape than after a good blowdry job)  but doesn't fall as much as it used to. Holey moley. I am planning on keeping up with this good habit for as long as I can- I remember that two summers ago, it helped my hair grow faster, thicker, a massive amount of baby hairs sprouting everywhere, and it improved the overall resistance. 



Plant pomades/tinctures

Oh yes. That's the 'special' thing I wanted to talk about.

Having massively thick hair, and not being a fan of the dry shampoo (too expensive for the one-day lifespan I can get away with, matte effect, staining 'qualities'), plant tinctures are the best thing that works for me whenever I experience oily hair and don't want to shampoo. 

Tinctures are solutions one can easily prepare by themselves by macerating (soaking in liquid for a while, in order to soften the material and extract the substances it contains) plants into alcohol. Some recipes (or just informative material)- here. 

I don't prepare them myself but buy them from my favorite 'holistic' drugstore. The best hair 'potion' (tincture) for hair is the one with stinging nettle

Stinging nettle contains an amazing array of nutrients, such as iron, vitamin A, C, D, E, F, K and vitamin P, calcium, magnesium and zinc. It fortifies the root, freshens up the scalp, removes buildup and dead skin cells and improves microcirculation at root level. 

The hair is nourished by capillaries, extremely thin blood vessels. In time, and due to extensive 'work' done to the hair (brushing, washing, coloring, blow drying, curling, pulling, etc) the root gets 'aggressed' and needs special care one can provide through both inner nourishment (a healthy diet, rich in fatty acids and vitamins) and also through external care. 

Back to the tinctures- these alcohol-based potions are a miracle for oily to extremely oily hair, being indicated even for dry/normal hair if it hasn't been washed for several days, just enough for it to get naturally coated with sebum. The alcohol in the tincture could have a slightly drying effect if applied on a clean scalp. 
I like to soak my fingers in the tincture or directly apply it, if it comes in a bottle with a dripper. Given the thickness of my hair, I usually have to vigorously massage my scalp to make sure the buildup is being removed by the tincture and the lotion is being properly absorbed. DO NOT do this if you have sensitive skin/scalp, suffer from allergies or have lesions/moles/birth marks on your scalp!!!

I find it a 100% natural and effective way to clean my hair without having to shampoo it while also helping it absorb all the nutrients contained in the plant (chamomile, nettle, sage, etc). In time, it strengthens the roots and prevents/helps cure hair loss.


THE Haircut

That's something everybody must get yet we all fear it like the devil. I've had my share of negative experiences so I know what it feels like to have to wait for your hair to grow out and pray for the best the next time you knock on a parlor's door...tips for avoiding disasters:

-don't try a stylist if you haven't seen previous work or glowing recommendations. As with clothes and makeup, don't be shy and ask away if someone is sporting a beautiful coif and you're dying to know who the stylist was.

-if you only need a bit of a trim to remove split ends, then you might as well trust yourself or a friend. The longer the hair, the better, since you won't have a shape to ruin and it's quite easy to grab and chop even by yourself.

-I suggest going to the hair salon with clean, straightened hair so the stylist knows exactly what your shape is; even if you're going to have it changed, or cut shorter, dramatically improved, it's always a good thing to let the hairdresser have an idea of what your hair really looks like (particularly for wavy or curly hair). If you're only popping in for a trim, it's nice to save a couple of $ on hair wash and styling since you obviously don't need that. Having clean, workable hair is also polite for the stylist- you don't want someone to feel uncomfortable touching unwashed hair.

-if you're doing it yourself, there are tons of ways to achieve it. Split ends removal-wise, all you need is a good pair of scissors (try getting the hair ones, not the paper ones), wet hair and a good brush/comb. Brush your hair downwards, in your usual way of styling (parted sideways, in the middle, etc) and just cut the ends at the length you desire. Don't worry, the more you cut, the faster it will grow- the little capillaries that nourish our hairs are so tiny yet must support a long hair throughout his life; you're making it easier for the nutrients to distribute along a shorter portion, you're removing old, dried up hair, making 'space' for new, healthier strands.

I have been cutting my own hair, or with help from friends, for about five or six years. It's time I went to the hair salon and got an actual shape. It's going to be trimming only, and a bit of a fringe. My hair doesn't need  complete reconstruction but just a bit of a spruce. Current plans- changing my hair color. I'm going lighter, possible blonde :) yay!

This is the color (highlights and lowlights, very natural) I am looking for:

I love Kate Moss' haircut....the color is not perfect, however the hairstyle is to die for....loves it!