The Infamous Chelsea Blow Dry- BIG hair is in (again)

Oh well, well well. Been gone for a while, but I really want to blog about something that's been on my mind for a while now (I always say this about everything, actually, so don't take this into consideration). 

What I wanna 'discuss today' is the famous Chelsea blow dry, or the 'hairdo' that's en vogue nowadays, since, apparently, the duchess of Cambridge (lovely Kate ex-Middleton) 'patented' it, managing to forever crucify tacky extensions, damaged hair and ugly tight curls. Go Kate.

I was reading an article today, about how to achieve your own salon experience in your home, with the help of some famous celebrity stylist's tips. The article depicted the 'painful' process of combing your hair, brushing it vigorously, then putting it on rollers and waiting, then some more brushing, then some hair products, etc etc. And ta-daaa, you've got yourself the Chelsea blow dry at home, for almost nothing! The funniest thing was that the stylist said about himself that he's got 'good arms' for the procedure :) well...kinda!

So, here's the thing. I'm not an expert, never been to cosmetology school, or hairdresser's school, or whatever it is that they call it. I've never worked in the field, so I can't say that my opinions espouse the absolute truth and the aforementioned guy was talking a lot of crap. However, my point is that he 'forgot' some important 'details' that I'd like to discuss in this post, since I've been doing my hair Kate-like for about 6 years or more (basically, since I've been wearing it long). 

That's the famous hairdo, in case you weren't familiar with it: 

Her hair looks beautiful, no comment. However, to do this is quite simple....here are some other examples of such beautiful hair:

And my absolute favorite, the hairdo Latin American actress Barbara Mori used to sport:

Her hair is just stunning. Lots of volume, healthy locks, really bouncy and shiny, looks so hydrated and nourished. The problem with this hairdo is that you'll never get it if you do the brush-rollers-brushing some more-blowdryer-brushing combo. It will ruin the hair, make it break like crazy and destroy it. So, I thought of sharing my own 'recipe' for this look. However, there are some things I want to point out. Again, I'm not experienced in the field, but I've visited plenty of salons during my 'heyday' and I know how to work this out because I have long, thick hair. If you dislike or disagree with what I have to say- by all means. However, I guess some points will make sense :)

First off, you need thick hair. Unless you have wavy or straight hair, this look is going to be a pain in the butt for everyone willing to sport such a shiny mane. It's difficult and literally painful if you need to straighten, brush your hair several times before getting it in any shape, especially for the ladies who relax their hair. That's also unhealthy. I think all hair types are beautiful, but for this look, you need to double your efforts if you're not 'lucky' enough. Also, again- if your hair is not thick by nature, it's going to be very hard to get the look without extensions or industrial quantities of volumizing products. The whole 'beauty' of the look resides in the fact that it emphasizes the shine, the bounce and the volume of the hair, which is kinda impossible to achieve with hairspray, volume powder or anything 'heavy' or too strong- it must look natural, this being the most important issue. 

Secondly, you might need some layers. My hair isn't layered so I always end up with something that looks like, or sometimes strives to look like this:

I am more than absolutely sure Lauren Conrad is wearing extensions, because without those, her hair usually looks like this:

Is not a bad look either, but a far cry from the glamorous and voluminous mane extensions give her. 

Third, you can use a hair curler without having to stress with hair rollers. I've always had this problem, my hair being too long for rollers, or getting tangled, or the curls appearing too tight and small. If you have the same 'problem', you can do something really easy. It does take a little time, but well. So in case I haven't already said it sixty times, this is what I do.

I dampen my hair with the towel and apply Wellaflex volume mousse (the best after Tresemme's) at the roots, massaging very firmly to diffuse the product. You have to apply a little bit because this mousse, unlike the Tresemme one, will feel like 'it burdens' your hair and you might actually think you have residues. They're not visible, but you can feel them on the hair shafts as you run your hand through your locks. The hair gets just a little coarse, which is how it manages to stay 'poofed', but it isn't such a big deal after all, especially since it doesn't look coated in anything and I have never gotten dandruff from it. It might get oilier sooner than usual, this being the downside. 

Afterwards, I blowdry my hair 'freestyle', on medium heat (with protective spray on top. No need for serums, it will weigh your hair down), until it's about 65% dry. Then I brush it (I know...but I have to!), and bend downwards so I'd blowdry it with my hair down, for a little volume. As I blowdry it I pass the brush especially at the roots, making sure those areas get a little more attention than the rest of the hair. I use a boar bristle brush, which is gentle enough, doesn't rip my hair out, doesn't break it, and it works beautifully. 

Once you've got the 'mane' going, you can do the following (for a little 'emergency volume'): take a very thick ribbon, or sash, whatever you have around (just make sure isn't too tight, so it won't leave marks, or make sure the marks won't be obvious) and gather your hair in a ponytail, as close as possible to the crown. You'll look silly, I know, but well. 

Then, take strands (not small, not too thick, medium-to-thick) and curl them with your hair curler. The larger the barrel, the smaller the strand. You can pin them up if you have time, I never do it because I think it creates weird 'curls', but if you have unruly hair that's a good option. After you're done, release them and spray them with a flexible hold, volumizing hairspray. 

The quality of the products you're using (the mousse and the hairspray) is crucial because you need something that won't weigh your hair, won't make it sticky (the absolute worst), gives volume and looks as natural as possible. To me, the best hairspray ever is Wellaflex (beats L'Oreal Elnett's ass)- smells really good, is very powerful yet the hair looks and feels flexible and 'thick', not sticky or wet. 

The first thing this hairspray does is fix your hair and it does look like ordinary 'hairspray'- the hair is visibly shiny and crunchy. However, after a maximum of 15 minutes, the hairspray would have penetrated the hair shaft and at that moment it does begin to show its full potential. It's important to let it dry, and not touch it until it has done its job. 

Brush your locks vigorously, until you're left with waves. Apply some more hairspray, then allow to dry, then brush a little bit more and 'personalize' your waves as you please. It will last like this the whole day, even the day after (no wonder the mousse is called '2nd Day Volume'..), trust me. And my hair is very thick, the hair shaft is so stubborn, it doesn't hold with too many products/techniques. This is the way I've been doing my hair since...well, several years now, and I've always had people ask me if I'm wearing extensions or what salon do I go to. 

If you want defined, bouncy curls like Kate's, try getting a little bit of layers. The look will differ depending on the length of your hair- you can get tighter, more defined curly ends, like Barbara Mori's, or something smoother, '70's-style, like Lauren's or these ones:

As you can tell, the common denominators of these styles are shine, health, thickness, slightly wavy hair with a bit of curl and tons of volume towards the ends. It looks nicer, more natural and 'preppy' than the typical 'supermodel hair':

So, you can try my tips if you want to preserve all your hair and not break it in pieces during 'brushing'. Brushing won't do squat as long as, of course, your hair isn't tangled and it has been properly blow dried 

(that's why the hairdo is called 'the Chelsea Blowdry', I guess...). 

Beautiful Hair Tips

When it comes to hair, most people, i.e. scientists, beauticians, grandmas etc tend to agree that genetics is the most important part of good looking locks. Cutting to the chase- if you don't have naturally thick hairs thus full bodied hair chances are you won't be getting it no matter what.
However, there are cases in which you might want to save your hair, give it an ego boost or just maintain its condition. You can alter your locks' original state by finding the products that best suit you and not what's the hottest trend or what your hair stylist is trying to make you buy. I've been sucked in by countless marketing moves and not always was i given what i was promised...so beware. Let's get to my personal tips, most of which i use and have been devoted to for years.

1. Keep it clean- if i had a nickle for every time i heard/read 'i don't want to wash my hair every two/three/n days because it's going to get oily', i'd be retired and cruising on the French riviera by now. Seriously. Your scalp tells you when it's time to clean it- simple as that. Oily hair roots leads to sebum accumulation, dead cell buildup (not to mention the dust particles, bacteria, styling products, sweat, etc) that slowly suffocate the hair follicle, making it thinner and eventually provoking its loss. I don't tend to embrace the 'daily wash' policy either because it dries up the skin and the hair, makes it brittle and more prone to breakage. I think an average timing would be every three days if you really need it or four-five normally.

2. Take care of the scalp- as if it were your complexion. Don't hurt it with strong chemicals; relaxed hair, permed hair, repeatedly bleached hair, these aren't just hair damages but they also affect the scalp. Think about the gloves your hairdresser must wear while dying/relaxing your tresses- for protection measurements. Invest in a top-notch scalp treatment that would prevent excessive exfoliation (similar effect to dandruff), nourish and hydrate the skin.
Another great thing is using hair toners- most of them are based on plants and are available in every holistic or herbal shop. 

Nettle, hops, rosemary and egg-based toners do work- they cure oiliness, calm down irritations, maintain enough moisture in both the scalp and the follicles.
Massage-another great way to active the circulation and fasten oxygen changes at cell level. Massage oils, toners, green tea, lemon juice, whatever feels good for your hairtype. It is not going to give any miraculous results but it's a natural and sure way to start having better hair.

3. Brush your hair- as ridiculous as it may sound i knew people who either didn't brush their hair or did it too often; going to extreme is never a good recipe. When you don't brush your hair dirt accumulates and weighs down the follicles; uncombed hair looks messy in a bad way, untidy and dirty. Buy a high quality brush- most salon experts and beauticians advise getting a boar bristle brush-it's 100% natural hair that's going to work much better than plastic (rips off, static hair effect, splits the shaft), wood (not efficient enough but good for untangling) or metal (oxidizes, can scratch the skin). Don't become a brush nazi but don't ignore it either. Be gentle, brush your hair once a day/every two days deeply, meaning insisting on the roots to lift up any dirt, dead cells and buildup; you can maintain a neat looking hair by brushing it every time you feel like it without stressing the roots too much. Long hair is difficult to maintain in shape because it gets tangled very easily, it's physically a real chore to brush it properly. Again-be gentle-if you notice short hairs falling out that's hair breakage- your hair is brittle and needs extra care.

4. Damaged hair- this is what split ends look like.

Rule nr 1 for starting to grow long hair (or any kind, for that matter) is to start with healthy hair. Unfortunately many women will not cut a single inch because they don't want to have 'short' hair and thus remain with permanently damaged hair that will never recover, will keep degrading and basically look like crap. I always trim 2-3 cm, every two months, and i've personally noticed that my hair grows faster, thicker, healthier. In a month the whole length is back as if i'd never cut it and the locks are healthier, glossier and easier to manage. Don't keep 'burnt' hair for length purposes because it will look bad and feel bad. Trim, trim, trim. Hair follicles experience a natural process of birth, growth, deterioration and 'death'. The only thing alive on your head is the scalp, made of skin cells, and the hair roots. The hair follicle is a 'dead' cell agglomeration, made of keratin. No matter WHAT you do it will not come back to life if it's fried. It's gonna get thinner day by day, drier, more brittle, get that dull aspect and eventually fall out. You seriously MUST trim your ends.
5. Hair products- this one is quite controversial. You have to find the products that best suit you and your needs (+budget). This is a gray zone made of trial and errors and we've all been there. I have some personal favorites that might work or not, depending on your hair.

6. Heat protecting- this is another important thing. Hot tools can indeed deteriorate your hair and it's good to be 'attentive' with what you're using to protect your locks from damage. It also depends on one's hair texture and sensitivity. Some girls have noticed hot tools don't actually damage their hair as much as blow drying does, for example. I have never had problems from drying my hair but i noticed curling irons and straighteners really damaged my hair ends. Because i have thick hair i don't have to blow dry it in summer, it looks just as full and nice as if it were 'artificially' dried. However. I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that oil-based, or grease-based, or heavy texture-based heat protective products, such as silicone, petroleum stuff and all sorts of oily stuff that's supposed to 'protect' your hair is actually frying it in contact with strong heat. I have given up using oily products on my hair, before blowdrying or using hot tools in favor of water-based heat protectants. They're easy to use, a couple of sprays and you're done, easy to apply all over your hair, they don't cause greasiness or heaviness, the scent is lighter and less persistent (in case you don't fancy it), and this stuff WON'T fry your hair but do what's supposed to do- protect it. I don't really know too much about the chemical process involved in the actual protecting of the shaft- how the mist creates a film on your hair etc, but i can tell it does work. Most of my so-called 'hair repairing serums' caused more damage than good. My advice would be to get a good quality heat protective spray/lotion and check out for silicone, petroleum derivates or any type of oil in it. If it feels and looks oily stop using it (with hot tools; you can use it as a styling product, for adding texture, shine, whatever you feel like, on dry or wet hair if you're not gonna curl/straighten your hair).

Best Stuff Ever
Budget: 
-Aussie shampoos, conditioners, treatments, sprays etc- Aussome Volume, Dual Personality anti-frizz; -Pantene shampoo, conditioner and hair masks (they're cheap and effective plus they're nicely scented); -Herbal Essences- the Hawafena and passion fruit conditioner (for colored hair) saved me after two very aggressive bleaching processes; unfortunately the old formulation is discontinued in Euope;
-Tresemme Hydrology (discontinued)-the old formulation is marketed in both the Smooth&Silky products as well as the volume ones. Their hair masks for dry hair are one of the best available on the market.
-John Frieda products- i like everything they sell. The conditioners are so 'strong' that could qualify as 2-in-1 hair masks as well.
-Lee Stafford- very good grooming balms, heat protectants and dry shampoo. Lovely, tacky scent. Yum!

 Splurge:

- Aveda products- my all time favorites are the Dry Remedy range products, extremely hard to find in Sweden and very expensive.

-Joico- high quality products, extremely expensive, but they can change the result from disaster to wow. The silver shampoo is highly recommended- it can transform yellow, orangey hair in 'dirty' blonde locks in a heartbeat. On average a Joico product retails for €32, which is a huge amount for a shampoo or conditioner. But they do work.

 -Keune-another well-established brand. I like their hair treatments and styling products. 

-Vidal Sassoon-best volumizing products ever. I used to be a Vidal freak until it became almost impossible to find in Sweden. VERY expensive as well, around €35 a pop. Most of the products i used had a very particular, barber-shop kind of scent that really put me off but i kept buying them especially since at one given moment they finally changed the perfume. They're really worth every penny.

Heat protective products- budget:
-Lee Stafford Poker Straight Flat Iron Protective Mist: light texture, great scent, spray, easy to use, really works and it's quite cheap;
-Tresemme Heat Tamer spray: not as nicely scented as the Lee Stafford one but it's still a great budget option.

Splurge: 
-Nexxus Heat Protexx;

-Vidal Sassoon Halo Hydrate (hydrating spray that conditions hair after washing), Heat Shape (protects from heat and gives volume), Smooth Drape (heat protective especially conceived for use with straighteners).

However, as i said....for extremely fried hair, the only cure is a drop of scissors tonic....