HAIR. Mine.

Didn't quite know how to spin this- hair care? products? it's nothing spectacular, since I'm definitely not a hair freak, no new avant-garde products to talk about, just current stuff I am using, why am I happy with it, the hair trimming ritual and how to get over (or not) the innate fear of the overzealous hairdresser. 

In my humble opinion, the perfect hair looks like this:

It's not too big, not too flat, looks healthy, the color isn't too light or too dark, hence increased color-wise manageability (easy to darken/lighten), the texture is wonderful, looks glossy without appearing too fake or oily, and the waves are just delicious. 

I have that hair. Long, thick, naturally shiny, and a tad longer at its present state. However, my biggest problem comes from two sources, one, that I've been coloring it for years and I'm currently engaged in the tantalizing process of 'waiting' for my hair to grow 'out', since I truly want to go back to my natural color (which would look amazing with some highlights....), and second, the shape. I have 'long' hair, quite shapeless...and since I'm not Cheryl Cole, I can't afford a stylist to take care of it on a daily basis and give it that wonderful shape that can be molded into a thousand new looks. So I have to do it myself. Which is quite a chore. 

I've recently embarked into a 'save my hair' routine that I intend to stick to, and find myself quite comfortable with. 

Shampoo:

Dove Intense Repair (Damage Therapy) Micro Serum Shampoo

A ton of reviews on Makeup Alley. Some of them will deem this shampoo controversial, since it apparently caused hair loss (!!) and changes of color (???). I have absolutely no idea if those claims are simply bamboozled or they actually happened, however, I tend to go with hail Dove every time I purchase one of their products. I have always trusted their stuff for several reasons- they don't engage in glossy, over the top advertising, because they don't need to. Their 'real women' campaign isn't the brightest out there, I have to admit, but the overall quality of their products is legendary, at least in my case. I first fell in love with Dove when I started using their classic soap, in both solid and liquid form. The stuff is simply the best soap out there and I feel more comfortable using it on my face than any other specifically created 'miracle' gel/wash/lotion out there. I also find it extremely delicate and much less harsher than baby washes, soaps and gels. Enough with the soap already. 

The shampoo, well, does what it says it will. Cleans very gently and leaves hair incredibly soft. The scent is milky yet clean, the classic slightly powdered Dove scent. It lathers well, cleans very well, doesn't strip my hair of its natural moisture and even right after shampooing, before applying conditioner, when I usually have very coarse, dry hair waiting to be soaked in some form of nourishment, I just don't get this feeling. 

It's not expensive, the packaging is clean and neutral, easy to find in all drugstores and beauty supply shops, it feels like I'm washing my hair with a darn efficient conditioner. Highly recommended. 

Claims to improve overall hair elasticity and condition by actually repairing split ends and other damage, preventing new hairs from deteriorating and dramatically decrease hair breakage by guaranteeing five times less split ends. The version I use, purchased in Europe, is based on the Fibre Actives technology plus the Micro Moisture Serum. I think my hair actually deserves this pampering. Have used it twice only so far, with actual results. It didn't patch up my split ends (yet), but it did leave my hair softer and a tad easier to manage. No more massive tangling, which i guess is the main culprit for hair breakage. 

Hair conditioner/mask/treatment:

I don't condition anymore but use a hair treatment and a mask every time I was my hair. Decided it was time to do so after watching AllThatGlitters21's Youtube hair routine and noticed she's doing the same thing to prevent her new hair extensions from deteriorating. Very good idea, especially if your hair is coarse, relaxed, recently permed or damaged from chemical treatments and extensive dying. 

I am currently using, and have been, for about two months, Aussie's Take the Heat 3-Minute Miracle treatment, combined with L'Oreal's Elvive/Elseve Anti-Breakage hair mask. I sometimes use one of them only, alternating with each wash, or both at the same time. 

I have to say the Aussie treatment hasn't been as efficient as their classic 3 Minute Miracle; the 'take the heat' part must have implied a change in formulation that my hair doesn't necessarily benefit from. It does protect from heat, my hair remaining glossy even after using a hot iron/straightener, however it hasn't improved softness, strength or aspect in general.

I prefer L'Oreal's mask, as strange as it might seem, given the fact that it's a drugstore product that costs much less than the Aussie one (5 or 6 € as opposed to 17 €). I like that my hair feels instantly softer the moment I apply the mask, is less tangled, smells divinely (citrusy fresh, yet creamy, not overbearing at all) and is left considerably softer. The mask is also thicker than the Aussie treatment, which allows for more uses, though they are both 200 ml versions. 

Serum:

Alternating between L'Oreal Liss Ultime Reflexium Thermo Soothing Oil (for use with heated styling tools) and Biosilk Silk Therapy serum. I like them both, I actually have to favor L'Oreal once again. The texture is considerably lighter than the Silk Therapy one, less sticky and heavy, the scent is more pleasant (vanilla and flowers, as opposed to the old lady rose perfume Biosilk has), and the manageability of the hair is superior. Once again, I strongly believe the Biosilk serum is a treatment, and should be used as such, as opposed to the L'Oreal one which is designed for more frequent use. 

However, the best thing that's every worked for my hair, in the serum department, was a product from the Swedish brand Björn Axen. 

It worked as everything my hair needed, all rolled into one- heat protective serum, shine serum, smoothing and anti-frizz, color conditioner and, most important of all, reconstructor for damaged hair. I still haven't found something to replace it, given the fact that it was the second thing (after scissors) that really worked on getting me rid of damaged ends (I don't know how it worked, perhaps it contains silicone, or something else, I couldn't care less since it did much more than what it claimed). However, I am currently abroad with no chance of purchasing it, so I am going to use my current stash and then get my hands on it the moment I get back to Sweden. Highly, highly recommended. 

Hair tools:

Boar bristle brush- the best of the best. The natural boar bristles really untangle my long, thick hair without breaking it, they remove excess oil and distribute it along the entire length of my tresses, lifting any buildup while massaging the scalp. Easy to clean, gentle (stay away from metal bristle brushes....not to mention the plastic ones, those are the worst), a true miracle worker. I have two large brushes I use simultaneously; though it's common knowledge one mustn't brush wet hair since it's prone to breakage, I have to say on my wet hair, these brushes have worked more efficiently than the Tangle Teezer, with no hair damage at all. 

Straightener- I am using a common, (white) ceramic hair straightener purchased online from a British company; I think it has a 'girly' name, however it was embossed on the box and not on the tool itself; it's of medium width, which I find to be perfect for my hair, and it can also be used for curling since it has rounded edges. Not planning on buying a new one anytime soon. 

Hair curler- my good ol' Remington. Planning on getting a new one since the barrel isn't as large as I'd like, nowadays I'm in the mood for large romantic curls. However, I'm kinda undecided since my hair texture prevents defined curls to stay intact no matter how much hairspray I use. 

Blow drying- Currently, none. Given the warm weather I usually prefer to let my hair dry naturally during summers, which makes a difference. I was surprised (should say appalled) when I noticed blow drying my hair didn't cause dryness or split ends as it happens with the majority; instead, it made my hair frail and contributed to minor hair loss. Ever since I stopped using the blow dryer my hair isn't smoother, or un-frizzed (though has less volume and good shape than after a good blowdry job)  but doesn't fall as much as it used to. Holey moley. I am planning on keeping up with this good habit for as long as I can- I remember that two summers ago, it helped my hair grow faster, thicker, a massive amount of baby hairs sprouting everywhere, and it improved the overall resistance. 

Plant pomades/tinctures

Oh yes. That's the 'special' thing I wanted to talk about.

Having massively thick hair, and not being a fan of the dry shampoo (too expensive for the one-day lifespan I can get away with, matte effect, staining 'qualities'), plant tinctures are the best thing that works for me whenever I experience oily hair and don't want to shampoo. 

Tinctures are solutions one can easily prepare by themselves by macerating (soaking in liquid for a while, in order to soften the material and extract the substances it contains) plants into alcohol. Some recipes (or just informative material)- here. 

I don't prepare them myself but buy them from my favorite 'holistic' drugstore. The best hair 'potion' (tincture) for hair is the one with stinging nettle. 

Stinging nettle contains an amazing array of nutrients, such as iron, vitamin A, C, D, E, F, K and vitamin P, calcium, magnesium and zinc. It fortifies the root, freshens up the scalp, removes buildup and dead skin cells and improves microcirculation at root level. 

The hair is nourished by capillaries, extremely thin blood vessels. In time, and due to extensive 'work' done to the hair (brushing, washing, coloring, blow drying, curling, pulling, etc) the root gets 'aggressed' and needs special care one can provide through both inner nourishment (a healthy diet, rich in fatty acids and vitamins) and also through external care. 

Back to the tinctures- these alcohol-based potions are a miracle for oily to extremely oily hair, being indicated even for dry/normal hair if it hasn't been washed for several days, just enough for it to get naturally coated with sebum. The alcohol in the tincture could have a slightly drying effect if applied on a clean scalp. 

I like to soak my fingers in the tincture or directly apply it, if it comes in a bottle with a dripper. Given the thickness of my hair, I usually have to vigorously massage my scalp to make sure the buildup is being removed by the tincture and the lotion is being properly absorbed. DO NOT do this if you have sensitive skin/scalp, suffer from allergies or have lesions/moles/birth marks on your scalp!!!

I find it a 100% natural and effective way to clean my hair without having to shampoo it while also helping it absorb all the nutrients contained in the plant (chamomile, nettle, sage, etc). In time, it strengthens the roots and prevents/helps cure hair loss.


THE Haircut

That's something everybody must get yet we all fear it like the devil. I've had my share of negative experiences so I know what it feels like to have to wait for your hair to grow out and pray for the best the next time you knock on a parlor's door...tips for avoiding disasters:

-don't try a stylist if you haven't seen previous work or glowing recommendations. As with clothes and makeup, don't be shy and ask away if someone is sporting a beautiful coif and you're dying to know who the stylist was.

-if you only need a bit of a trim to remove split ends, then you might as well trust yourself or a friend. The longer the hair, the better, since you won't have a shape to ruin and it's quite easy to grab and chop even by yourself.

-I suggest going to the hair salon with clean, straightened hair so the stylist knows exactly what your shape is; even if you're going to have it changed, or cut shorter, dramatically improved, it's always a good thing to let the hairdresser have an idea of what your hair really looks like (particularly for wavy or curly hair). If you're only popping in for a trim, it's nice to save a couple of $ on hair wash and styling since you obviously don't need that. Having clean, workable hair is also polite for the stylist- you don't want someone to feel uncomfortable touching unwashed hair.

-if you're doing it yourself, there are tons of ways to achieve it. Split ends removal-wise, all you need is a good pair of scissors (try getting the hair ones, not the paper ones), wet hair and a good brush/comb. Brush your hair downwards, in your usual way of styling (parted sideways, in the middle, etc) and just cut the ends at the length you desire. Don't worry, the more you cut, the faster it will grow- the little capillaries that nourish our hairs are so tiny yet must support a long hair throughout his life; you're making it easier for the nutrients to distribute along a shorter portion, you're removing old, dried up hair, making 'space' for new, healthier strands.

I have been cutting my own hair, or with help from friends, for about five or six years. It's time I went to the hair salon and got an actual shape. It's going to be trimming only, and a bit of a fringe. My hair doesn't need  complete reconstruction but just a bit of a spruce. Current plans- changing my hair color. I'm going lighter, possible blonde :) yay!

This is the color (highlights and lowlights, very natural) I am looking for:

I love Kate Moss' haircut....the color is not perfect, however the hairstyle is to die for....loves it!

The Little White Pencil

I decided to blog about this because to me, using a white pencil has made a tremendous difference.

I've been a fan of the light-colored (mostly light cream) eye pencil (inliner) for as long as I can remember, simply because penciling my waterline with black doesn't suit my eye shape and it makes my eyes look smaller; I also get that yesterday's makeup look and a completely tired face.

While I was looking for some tricks on YouTube I came across a video of a lady who explained that a white pencil can be successfully used as a 'highlighter', if you're on the run or don't own one. Boy was she right.

Apart from opening the eyes, making them look bigger and the entire face, more awake, using a white pencil is a life savior if you apply it exactly where you need it. How it's done- or at least, how I do it:

First off, you need a good quality pencil. I have always assumed that, since I am only going to use it on my waterline, I can use any type of pencil I want; wrong. If it's too creamy, like the one that I used (from Avon), it will leave small residues around your lash roots and appear like you're trying too much, the white will be too white. If it's too hard, it will do a great job when used on the eyes but will fail at anything else, being too hard to get properly blended in.

I am currently using L'Oreal's white eyeliner, just a 'regular' one, and I am pretty happy with it. It's pigmented, not too soft but not hard either, a little goes a long and it isn't expensive at all compared to higher-end brands.

I basically like to use it on my smile lines, in the angles of my mouth. That area used to be a huge stress for me because no matter what I did, the foundation and powder would accumulate in the small expression lines and age my face quite a lot. I constantly had to fidget with a mirror and touch my face every hour; it had become a sort of bad habit for me and using a cream highlighter didn't help at all.

Ever since I tried the trick, as suggested by the YT lady, things have definitely changed. The pencil seals the 'lines', creating an optical illusion (white reflects light) of fullness; no more foundation caking in! Yay!

Other than this, I like to use the white pencil on my inner eye angles, to bleach out any discoloration (dark/purple circles...) if I won't insist with the concealer (it's never a good idea). The pencils blends in beautifully and leaves a sort of halo on the skin; my personal opinion is that it truly washes away any fatigue and creates beautiful, rested eyes.

You can also use it underneath your lower lash line, for a more awaken effect, or on your dark circle line, to set the concealer/highlighter and create that optical illusion. I guess it's okay to use it on lines in general, cause ladies, it DOES work.

 Just remember not to overdo it, a white cast doesn't look good on anyone, and just gently pat it on until it blends in perfectly with your skin. Voila!

BROWS, BROWS, BROWS! and a thought

Ha! I'm back, after a LONG time. Oh well.

Number one, I was thinking of moving  leaving blogspot, in the sense of exporting my blog on another site...well. It's because of the layout, impossible to work with, and my unconditional love for a clear-cut, comfy, state-of-the art, well designed platform I can actually blog on...not something that crashes and never recovers...but i'll be thinking about that.

This post is a reply (really belated) to a comment I got, about eyebrow shapes. Unfortunately my camera batteries are dead, so no new pics available for now, however i do have an array of (old) photography supply I can document my little research with and also the .com, which is truly going to help in this case.

Firstly, you can take a look at my previous brow-related post- http://mariesbeautyblog.blogspot.com/2010/03/all-about-eyebrows-part-1.html. It's not the best piece in the world but it will definitely answer some questions if you're confronted with the eternal brow question: to thin or not to thin.

Secondly, the question that remains unanswered is HOW to shape them. Filling in, that comes afterwards, because even the most admirably executed tweezer job demands a little bit of polishing from time to time, especially when it comes to (evening) makeup.

These are my simple rules for shaping the eyebrows. I've screwed up MANY times, mostly on my own brows (phew!), in the sense that it wasn't always a perfect result, or the shape changed accordingly- once the hairs grow out, you'll get not only regrowth, in the shape of small hairs around the eyebrow, but longer, more difficult to tame hairs that can modify the aspect of your brows.

The following section is for girls, or anyone who wishes to sport a more feminine eyebrow look. I will also talk a little about the 'manly' eyebrow design as well.

Here we go.

Rule number one: 

Work with your natural shape.

If it isn't severely distorted, if it doesn't make you look surprised/angry/sad etc. in an excessive manner, don't try to alter it all at once; you'll most probably going to end up with something that doesn't suit your face frame or bone structure, thus will have to resort to penciling them in to fix the damage. Go as slowly as possible, especially if you're a newbie, or after a regrowth. Don't worry- you've spent so much time with 'those' eyebrows, a couple of days won't really matter. It's better to pluck one hair at a time than to give yourself a dramatic makeover you might regret shortly after.

Rule number two:

Don't always trust salons. I swear, if I had a nickel every time I heard this....now let's clear this out. It is obvious that trained professionals (cosmetologists or makeup artists) are the most indicated people to create a good looking brow shape; however, I strongly suggest you first go in their salon/studio, witness some 'demonstration' on another person, or just find out about a salon by word of mouth- recommendations from friends, co-workers, etc. 

Don't be shy- if you see something really beautiful, don't be afraid to ask. I've made an enormous amount of purchases- fashion-wise- that I absolutely loved based on anonymous recommendations from complete strangers I met on a daily basis. Anyways, as I said, don't trust a salon just because they're a salon, pop in and completely abandon yourself (and your eyebrows) on the chair. It's better to do it yourself or save some money and go to a reputable makeup artist/cosmetician to do the job for you than screw up and feel miserable for two, three months. 

My problem with getting the eyebrows done at the salon derives from the fact that eyebrows are not facial hair. It's about having aesthetic norms, so to speak, or just an eye for what suits one's face- probably like a designer has got to have insight, talent and creativity. Because you might end up with something completely different from what you wanted just because the lady at the salon 'likes' that shape. No-no. Another issue I've had with salons stems from terrible cases of male eyebrow destruction I've encountered. Poor guys go to expensive places and have their brows plucked the hell out until they look like Dame Edna. But, being told they're okay by someone with a diploma, they continue living in a lie. Oh well. 

So, go for it if you're SURE. 

Rule number three:

It's better thicker than thinner. I know, sad but true. However, you should read this like 'it's better moderately thick, natural-like, than sharpie brows that looked crayoned on the forehead'. The Marlene Dietrich-type of eyebrow is not only out of fashion, but terribly aging for the face. It makes the skin lose support and, in many years' time, gives you droopy eyelids. Thick eyebrows are also out of discussion if you don't have baby-like facial features- a young Brooke Shields, Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova,  or Gemma Ward, etc. If you look 'normal', go for 'normal'. Etcetera. You get my point. 

Rule number four:

TRIM your eyebrows. Don't pluck the hair that stands out- it might change the shape of your entire brow or end up causing a hole in it. Just gently trim about a millimeter of the hair length and see what happens. Brush the hairs carefully, trim, brush one more time, trim again, and so on. Not only it will take care of those rebel hairs, it might actually improve the shape/refresh a brow job in between plucking. 

Rule number five:

Try to envisage your final version of the 'perfect brow' along the process, or even before. Try to see the contour of the brow among the hair you want to remove, and imagine yourself with it. I have never used a white pencil, just some stencils, and for fun only, so I really can't comment on this aspect, using an additional tool to design your 'new' brow contour. 

If you feel comfortable with using some sort of instrument- that's great. Just make sure the result looks normal, not too thick/thin, etc. And even if you like some 'brows', remember they might not look good on you. Just because Megan Fox has a certain brow shape doesn't mean it will work on your face. Don't try to force your natural contour. You can give it a lift, of course, and clean it up, or the opposite, making it look demure, with a natural slant. But don't overdo it. You'll end up crying over plucked eyebrows, cruising the aisle looking for pencils to fill them in. 

Rule number six:

That's a lucrative one. It's about my own taste and what I personally see as working for most people. So you can take this advice or not. My suggestion would be to try keeping the difference between the beginning of the brow and the portion that follows as small as possible. Meaning don't leave a big, thick front part of the brow to immediately pluck everything out and get pencil-thin brows.

I like the more natural approach, the one with a gentle crescendo of the process and not an abrupt beginning of thinness. I think it looks clean, natural, refreshes the face and makes the eyes look wider, more awake. That's one important rule I always apply when doing my eyebrows or anyone else's, for that matter. 

Rule number seven:

You CAN pluck/wax/shave the hairs off the upper part of the brow, just do it as gently as possible. I couldn't stress this enough. The upper edge of the brow must look natural, otherwise...it won't. Just be VERY, very careful. I couldn't stress it enough. If you leave it in pristine condition, it might or might not look untidy, depending on your natural shape. I strongly suggest you to be extremely light-handed, or better, if you don't trust yourself, let someone with more experience help you. Screwing up your eyebrows is one thing, per se; chipping them from above equals disaster and you don't want that to happen.

Rule number eight:

Don't let your eyebrows grow too much or you'll ruin a potentially good shape, especially if you got the right one and are afraid you won't nail it the second time you're trying, or if you went to Anastasia of Beverly Hills or something. Just play a little with the tweezers every two-three days, to keep the canvas clear. It's very simple and easy :)

Rule number nine:

If you think your eyebrows are too 'long', thick, bushy, etc in the beginning, namely at the base of the nose, pluck whatever it is to pluck (the unibrow) in between them but try trimming the hairs instead of plucking everything out. You don't want to create a large space between your brows, or the opposite- leave a narrow 'escape'. Gently trim, and if you get square angles- trim those too. Very, very gently. I know, i might seem obsessed but attention to details is what makes a good eyebrow design, and well, all design in general. Square edges equal rigidity, sharpness and well, an unnatural aspect. Don't go too deep or you'll have to adjust the brow with some powder/pencil. Step-by-step!!!

Rule number ten:

You don't have to invest in expensive brow maintenance products, just find the correct tones for your skin/hair color. Apart from that, i strongly suggest several pieces for your brow survival kit- translucent powder, to pat around and on your eyebrows, remove any excess of pencil/brow powder and give the brow makeup a mellow aspect; a highlighter- any brow bone will look cleaner, fresher and give a bit of lift to the entire face if covered in a soft light- whether you want a satin finish or opt for a matte one; a brow comb and (transparent) gel to fix them- it makes a huge difference, especially after a long day, when your makeup is all melted, or could use some serious sprucing up- your brows will still be ok. 

Rule number eleven (VERY important):

If it ain't broken, don't fix it. If you have naturally full eyebrows, just got a brow job and you're feeling good about it, don't fill it in. Don't overdo it. You'll end up looking unnatural and having wasted some good $ for the  brow beautification process...if you're still filling in your eyebrows. There's no need for that, honestly. I am saying this because yesterday, while researching for brow-related issues, I have encountered some blog posts I can't quote, for obvious reasons, in which the author proudly described and photographed her eyebrows...and the pencil. The shape was quite ok but the color was a major mistake since it appeared too intense due to excessive zealousness. So ladies and gents, don't overdo your brows if you're happy with them. At most just carefully 'spoolie' them in with a tiny bit of ashy brown powder and call it a day. 

For the gentlemen (or the ladies who pluck their eyebrows):

There's nothing worse than a lad with sharpie eyebrows. The best way to do it is to make it seem you DIDN'T do it. The 'secret' is plucking the hairs without perfect definition- take a look at the L'Oreal ads, for example. Even the girls have natural-looking eyebrows though all photography is digitally retouched. I like that look, very natural yet nicely defined, without looking like you've actually worked on it. 

I was 'honored' in the past with trustworthiness of male friends, thus had them allow me groom their brows a little bit. 

What seems to work best is:

-using wax strips/warm wax/whatever substance/tool you're comfortable with, even thread, (if your subject tolerates pain) to remove the little hairs around the brow, on the outer sides of the brows, on the upper part etc. It just 'cleans up' the area and gives a more refreshed look without looking like something was actually done there.

-using the tweezers to carefully remove ONLY what's to be removed; the ideal way of 'measuring' whether you're doing it right or not, i.e. taking too much hair or the opposite, is checking out for the beginning of the areas where the hair starts to grow thicker and thicker. Once you've hit/ you're very close to that skin portion, time to wrap it up. NEVER give a man a prominent arch, he will look ridiculous if that's not the effect he's going for. CLEAN UP and nothing more; the perfect brow job for a man is to have the lines of the brows as natural as possible, with a couple of hairs sporting out to delude the eye. I guess I don't even have to mention the infamous sharpie brows...and what they look like on men. Hello, Jersey Shore.

Products we all love (at least I do, and heard some gals like them as well):

Cheapsters- H&M brow powder, H&M brow pencil in Light Brown, Isadora brow pencil in 22 Light Brown, Max Factor brow pencil in 02 Hazel; 

Higher end stuff:  Clinique brow liner in Soft Brown and Deep Brown (02 and 03), Clarins brow pencil in Light Brown, Anastasia Beverly Hills pencil in Medium Ash (universal shade, can be worn by anyone, regardless of hair color), etc. 

It's hard to find a good quality brow pencil/powder, and sometimes even high end brands manage to screw up and present something awful (shame on you, Lancome!), mostly with reddish undertones. However, there are so many nice products out there, and so many are drugstore, that the task of achieving the perfect eyebrow is no longer impossible.