The Best Primer- Eyeshadow and Skin

Oh well well well. Where do I begin.

I've had this issue with oily forehead, chin, nose and eye lids for years- pretty much like 80% of the people out there. I have been going through primers for ages- some of them have been good, some, not-so-good, and others, a complete disaster.

I don't own the famous Urban Decay Primer Potion (or the Too Faced Shadow Insurance) because I have been living in Sweden for the past ...number of years and the brands are not available with their entire ranges. Therefore, I had to settle with something else- and boy was it an adventure.

This is going to be a short post about one particular product I deem indispensable for me, which has proven to be my best friend over the years (last two) and has saved me from many, many makeup emergencies.

It is the Shiseido Anti-shine Refreshner for men (Their 'men's grooming' range works wonderfully on my skin as well).

What it does: claims to minimize the appearance of pores and excess surface oil for fresh-looking, shine-free skin. Has Thiotaurine, a substance meant for helping the skin out with excessive sebum secretions and claims to improve the texture of the complexion upon application. Shiseido also says this product contains oil-absorbing reflecting powder to help minimize the aspect of the pores.

What I know: ...that when Shiseido says something, Shiseido means it. I trust absolutely all of their products, I am a huge fan of their makeup (mascaras and foundations) and this is the first skincare product I am trying. And I am impressed.

The packaging is sleek, really elegant, a silver tube that's very easy to carry around since it's quite slender. It has this thin nozzle and a cute screw-on cap as well (I find it much better than the 'pop' ones that can easily break or open when you least expect it).

How cool is that?

The gel isn't all jelly-gel-ish but rather creamy; it is a bit scented but just a tiny tiny bit, it's non comedogenic and dermatologically tested. Calculated for men's heavily oily skins (or noses, chins and even bald spots, who knows!), this product is the most effective anti-shine I have ever used, and also, the best primer to combat oiliness. No kidding.

The cream just absorbs oil like a sponge, leaving your skin smooth and radiant; perhaps you need to exaggerate or apply it around delicate areas (eyes, mouth, etc) to have it feel dry or pulling your skin. It works wonderfully- everywhere I apply it- especially on the forehead.

Now there's a trick with this product- you only need the tiniest bit. If you use more than a matchstick head-like quantity (and I mean it) you'll probably have to wait around 10 minutes to have it absorbed completely just to make sure. Because you need to apply it after your moisturizer, and just a tiny bit, so it wouldn't affect the consistency of your foundation and suck all the oils out of it, making it practically unblendable or rather difficult to work with. 

You need to gently pat the product on (after you've blended it between your fingers) and continue with the patting motion until it has been completely absorbed into the skin. You'll instantly feel fresh and ready to face the world, whether it's super cold outside or scorching sun and humidity. 

My favorite thing about this primer is that I can easily use it as an eyeshadow primer and love the results. I couldn't say it emphasizes the pigment in my eyeshadows, making the color pop like I've heard about famous primers, but it does create a fine, perfectly smooth, oil-free canvas that stays on and on for about 24 hours. I am not kidding. 

I applied this in the morning (last time I used it, which was several days ago- last time I wore makeup this week), put my makeup on, went out, ran my errands, met some friends in the afternoon, went to dinner, went clubbing, came back at dawn, slept with my eye makeup on (I know, I know...but i cleaned my face- nothing left there) and woke up the next day with it intact. My eyes looked exactly the same as they did before I went to bed. Amazing.

I feel like it hasn't dried out my skin, especially the delicate area of the eyelids, and it hasn't done it at all. It allowed for a perfect application of the eyeshadow, with blending and everything, and I really liked that for the first time in years, I didn't have to use foundation or concealers as primers. I just wanted something fast, light, easy to apply and I got it.

I have been using Maybelline's Superstay 24 Hour concealer as an eyeshadow primer, which was good as well; but I feel like nothing compares to this one. Especially when it comes to how it acts on the skin (its original purpose, after all). 

If you have severely oily skin, if you just want your face to stop getting shiny, if you want something easy to carry around for touch-ups and prefer choosing a skincare item rather than (yet) another makeup product, then I strongly suggest you try this little fellow. It is quite expensive, $33 for 30 ml/ 1 oz., so I guess the smartest thing would be to ask for samples before you decide to purchase it. 

Favorite Homemade Face and Body Scrubs

I think I've given up on buying face and body scrubs a very long time ago. My last trial was with Bourjois Orange peel face scrub, which I ended using as a facial wash because of its mild cleansing properties, not for its original purpose.

I am obsessed with scrubbing, especially on the face where I get a ton of blackheads and dead skin cells after using makeup, sun protection, etc. My skin is combination and my pores are quite large, therefore they tend to get plugged easier than in other people.

I found about these 'items' on makeup alley, on the internet, and last but not least, by word of mouth from my family and friends. Not in a pharmacy, not in a store or some cleverly designed commercials. I find that these combos work perfectly for my skin, which is why I decided to blog about them- maybe it'll work you you as well, who knows? They're 100% natural and packed with vitamins, anti oxidants, free of chemicals, parabens, etc. I could never ever stop using them and I'm grateful they come at such low prices!

Face and Body scrub #1 ingredient: Ground Coffee

It's the best exfoliant out there, hands down. It's small enough for not scratching your skin, which sugar does sometimes; it doesn't have that roughness sugar has because it absorbs water and slowly softens, getting the perfect texture for completely removing any trace of dirt and dead skin cells. I always use fresh ground coffee but it's almost the same if you decide to scrub with the used one. It's mostly about the original anti-oxidants and minerals that get destroyed/transferred through the boiling process.

For the face- i mix it with honey, for a moisturizing and calming effect. It is not a mask (I hate face masks! it takes forever to dry and cleaning up is always messy!), but a scrub. Therefore you can 'trick' yourself into believing this (if you're like me and hate getting all messy for 15 minutes while not knowing what to do since your face is covered in goo) while in the shower; let the warm vapors open your pores and massage it deeply into your skin. It feels rough but pleasant at the same time, really invigorating. I could never stop doing this.

Mix it with yogurt for an all-natural 'peel' effect. The mechanic exfoliation provided by the coffee makes a great combo with the light chemical exfoliation the yogurt acids provide. It gets your skin to benefit from everything milk has to offer- moisture and nourishment- plus the advantage of a thorough cleansing from the buttermilk acids. This is what dermatologist and celebrity skincare expert Kate Somerville advices you to do as well- read it in magazines and saw it on YouTube as well.

You can also use it combined with your face wash gel or your regular cleanser, for a 2-in-1 effect when you're on the run and don't have time for letting anything sit on your face for more than 3 seconds. It does work beautifully, and it's extremely easy to apply/scrub/rinse off.

For the body, the best combination is ground coffee with some essential oils (I use the Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse and coconut oil) or just your body wash or body lotion (for dry skins). You can always wash off the lotion in the shower and your skin will be left amazingly smooth, unlike with anything you have ever tried.

The only thing you must be a little attentive with is the messiness..it can get a bit hazardous especially if you're using fresh ground coffee and not 'used' one. Just be careful not to get any tiny bit of it in your eyes, nose or mouth, and wash it off diligently with the shower until there's nothing left. Coffee tends to release its color in water so don't get scared your shower/tub is brown- it'll wash away really easily. Plus the delicious odor of coffee combines with the perfume of your shower gel/body lotion, mm that I like!

Face and Body scrub #2 ingredient: Baking soda 

This is especially indicated for the face, if you want something as resembling a chemical peel as possible at a fraction of the price. If you have dry skin you must pay special attention because it tends to cleanse thus be kinda drying. 

The texture of baking soda is that of a fine powder that doesn't dissolve in water that easily, which makes it perfect for facial scrubs. I have read a lot about it and found out it's especially indicated for acne, acne scarring, severe blackheads and oily skins. It does work wonderfully, even mixed with water only, and it acts delicately on the skin. You can't even tell you're scrubbing your face but just 'washing' it with something thicker than your usual face wash. 

It removes everything, even in the tiniest crevasses of the skin where a bulgier scrub couldn't do much; it leaves the skin tight, shiny, fresh as if you'd just returned from the spa. My favorite scrub of all times, it isn't messy, cheaper than coffee (haha!), it's unscented and does the trick every time. You can also use baking soda for whitening your teeth, refreshing white laundry, cleaning silverware or jewelry and other delicate items around your house. Really a bargain, and so effective!

If you want to mix it, here's a little list of what I like to combine baking soda with:

-egg yolks (or just a beaten egg)

-essential oils

-coconut oil

-olive oil (just a few drops)

-water (until the product mimics the consistency of a paste, not thinner)

-orange, lemon and watermelon juice (for removing spots, age marks, and a stronger peel with the combo of fruit acids)

Face and Body scrub #3 ingredient: Wheat Bran

This is a fantastic way of scrubbing off dead skin cells while at the same time offering your skin some pampering- wheat bran comes packed with nutrients and vitamin B. It manages to wash away everything you want it to without scratching being too harsh on your skin. Can be a little bit messy, especially for the drains, so make sure you handle it with care.

I usually mix it with water only, because it gets softer and it doesn't need anything else. For the face, you can definitely add some egg yolk and have the scrub of your life. Tends to get softer as it soaks up liquid so make sure you use it with a tiny bit of water only, and right after you've made the mixture.

Hope all this helps you as much as it does for me! Happy scrubbing!

Clinique Superbalanced Makeup Foundation Review

I used this product several times only, in scorching heat, three days in a row. I can usually decide whether I like a product after one use only, the verdict depending on how it reacts on my skin and the longevity of the finish. It's because 99% of the time I use the exact same products (moisturizer and primer) so I know that, except for drastic weather conditions, it is going to be the same story every time I am going to use it. This is valid for foundations only. 

I got my hands on several samples of the Clinique Superbalanced foundation so I decided to (finally) use it; I haven't purchased the product so it wasn't a waste for me. The samples were more than enough for my five uses, which I find quite nice (usually samples contain a few drops of product that aren't sufficient for my entire face). So I guess if you're trying to decide on this product, getting a sample or two would be the best alternative since you can really see how it works when you use a little bit only, when you build up several layers, etc.

The sample was in Ivory VF-N. Don't really know what the abbreviations stand for since I am not into Clinique foundations. It must be some symbol for 'neutral' or their shades' gradation, though on the website they have one Ivory only and several others that suggest lighter/darker variation of the shade- Alabaster, Light, Fair, Petal, etc. 

The consistency of the foundation is that of a liquid, but not extremely runny. I'd say it belongs to the generic category of fluid foundations, with no 'special' qualities such as gel-like appearance, a mousse-like texture or anything creamier than your liquid foundation. 

I applied it on the back of my palm first, then used my Isadora large domed kabuki brush (natural bristles). This is one of the best brushes I have ever encountered, far better than  anything MAC, Sephora Platinum or any other foundation brush I have ever tried. 

The shade is light but it definitely suits my skintone. It's my face's natural color with only one problem- when on the back of my hand, it looked exactly like my natural skin, with mellow cream undertones, while once applied on the face it got rather pink undertones. Nothing strong, nothing visible, but I personally saw it. It didn't transfer into the pictures which was a relief, however I still think it's visible. Oh well. 

Foundation only. Facing natural light.

Facing natural light. Bourjois Rose d'Or Baked Blush on the cheeks only.

It does look natural in pictures, especially in natural light.

The first impression was 'wow'. It has great coverage and doesn't feel oily on the skin, yet allows for multiple layers (on the chin and under the eyes in my case). It has a bit of 'glow' on the pore areas- the inner cheeks, chin and forehead- which tends to fade off as soon as the foundation has dried out. It doesn't look oily at all.

However, and this isn't visible in the picture, it doesn't look natural on my skin. The shade just 'took over' my entire face and didn't let the skin 'breathe'. I felt like this foundation is a mellower Estee Lauder Double Wear minus the 'paint-like' aspect and endurance. It looked as if I had already set it with powder, and on the forehead it wasn't doing a great job with the pores and expression lines (the photos I took don't include the forehead, unfortunately).

It gets really dry, very quickly, and I could literally feel my skin pulling, especially around the mouth and the temples. I have combination skin and an oily forehead, therefore I didn't think this would be a problem; after setting it with a bit of powder (Chanel Poudre Universelle pressed powder) it really got extremely dry; however, it wasn't such a problem for my forehead since I had to take a long walk and the temperature was really high, the foundation + powder helping a great deal in this department. However, it did feel dry...even after a long day in the sun.

I am always going for the dewey yet not-oily aspect of the foundation, even after setting it with powder (forehead, nose and chin); it doesn't really happen with most products since it's difficult to achieve that finish with a liquid/cream foundation. So in this department, I might have to say my demands were a bit over the top.

However, I do think this foundation might be great for oily-very oily complexions because it absorbs the sebum of the skin, pretty much like Vichy Normablend. The only difference is the texture- thick and unnatural.

Therefore, I will not purchase this foundation because I feel like I am getting the same results with my Vichy one, minus the mask effect and a less rosy toned shade.

How I Clean My False Lashes

I know almost nobody does this, most girls have tens (or even hundreds!) of falsies in their kits/vanities, but I'm sorta on a budget. And I also hate wasting anything if it's still good to use, so why not?

What follows is my personal manner of dealing with the process of making sure you can reuse your false lashes- cleaning them. Most videos on YouTube and blog posts do other things, namely the infamous 'alcohol cleansing method' or what I call 'maceration'- leaving the falsies in some container with water and alcohol. I never did this, my 'recipe' is simpler, faster and really cool (because it's mine!). So here's what I do. For the record, I only use Duo Lash Adhesive in Black. 

1. I never rip my false lashes off, like I saw everybody else doing. It takes your natural lashes off as well, pinches and pulls the skin and you're also damaging the falsies if you're using a high-quality adhesive, like Duo, which has strong endurance.

Instead, what I do is pat my face (especially the eye area; take some warm water in your fists and put them over your eyes, above your sink) with warm/hot water, depending on mood and weather. I soften the makeup this way, the mascara that is attached to my natural lashes and the false ones as well, binding them together, and i soften the adhesive. I just need one splash and they're ready to be peeled, not ripped off. It's the best manner of removing them as gently as possible.

2. I leave them aside while I remove my eye makeup in my usual routine. Don't start cleaning the lashes because the softened mascara and eyeshadow is already a mess and it gets into the eyes immediately. I just take off my makeup and make sure there's nothing left.

3. I just let warm water running, and keep the lashes under the tap for about 15-30 seconds, depending on the water temperature and the type of lashes (will get to this one in a minute). 

4. The adhesive softens very easily, and sometimes (I guess if combined with other products, or just depending on the water temperature, not sure) gets light gray, like a little discolored. It usually stays black. 

5. I can literally peel small strands of adhesive off the false eyelash margin; carefully, really gently, and I don't even have long nails. I am saying 'gently' because you might wanna pay extra attention if you're using lashes that are $50 a pop, like Shu Uemura, MAC or any other expensive brand. To be honest, I sometimes just rip the softened adhesive strands off the eyelash line and call it a day, it's so soft that I don't need to be 'careful'. Just saying. Oh and if adhesive has gotten into/among the base of the hairs, then I do have to be careful not to destroy the lash; I use the tweezers or pick every bit of softened adhesive really carefully. It has the consistency of chewing gum, minus the stickiness. Really easy.

6. I never leave my lashes soak in liquid, because it damages the hairs and softens their own adhesive.

7. I never rub them between my palms- what's the purpose? The mascara I had on (and I use very little or no mascara on false eyelashes...I think it looks better with my makeup style) has already melted and dissolved by itself; if I really really wanna make sure everything is gone, I can use the tiniest bit of Dove face soap suds, or some face cleanser, a bit of (baby) shampoo (gentle), whatever. Something really mild. 

8. I never apply alcohol. It is just useless- you're disinfecting something that will get filled with bacteria and germs as soon as it comes in contact with oxygen or another surface. What's the point? Plus, it dries out the hairs of your falsies if they're natural and completely effs up the adhesive. Boo. Never!

9. Now, time to put them back into shape- take the lash, 'shake' it a little to remove any water drops off your fingers/the lashes. Take the lash by the base line and hold it with your index and your thumb. With your other hand, take a soft towel. Gently come forward with the lash, not the other way around, and just touch the lash against the towel. You can also use makeup removing wipes, paper towels, etc, whatever you wish as long as the material doesn't leave residues/lint. 

Press them against the fabric you're using just to make sure you're getting the water 'residue' soaked out of the hairs; do not rub or push hard. 

Then keep the lash in the same position, just curl the hairs back to their previous shape with your other hand, then press the fabric against the 'new curl' until you see it holds. You can dry them naturally (what I usually do because they dry up really fast) or close to a heat source, it doesn't really matter as long as you're attentive. 

I'll put some pics to demonstrate, as soon as possible. 

Now, there is a difference between handling natural hair false lashes and falsey-false ones.

1. No hot water on the natural ones.

2. No hair pulling, scratching, anything in the family. It will ruin your lashes, especially if they're expensive. Use a pair of tweezers to remove what's remained between the hairs, at the base. 

3. You need to reshape them once they're no longer soaking wet, because the natural hair will change its curl after the bath. It will not look identical, however what I personally think is that the 'new' shape looks much more natural than the original version and the lashes do look as if they were yours once you reuse them. However, this depends on your preferences. The synthetic hair falsies remain the same no matter what, but they have a little problem- the hairs are glued with their own adhesive, so you need to be careful when you clean them as well. 

Then you can store them like I do (very frugally shown here http://mariesbeautyblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-clean-brusheshow-to-store-lashes.html), or place them back to their original cases. 

How to clean the brushes/How to store the Lashes

So I just discovered the best product to clean foundation brushes/sponges or any kind of brush that you use for oily/thick products. It's a strong detergent meant for cleaning baby 'stuff'- toys, cutlery, strollers, and for disinfecting and cleaning surfaces of all kinds babies might come into contact with. It's really useful because it's so effective (I actually cleaned blueberry juice off white fabric with this baby) yet gentle. 

The product is Chicco Disinfectant and I have the Italian/European version. Perhaps it's found in different names/descriptions on markets outside the European Union. 

It comes in a large plastic bottle (700 ml, or 22.66 fl. oz) and it's a white liquid. Has an atomizer that you can turn to 'off' mode so you won't spill it or endanger the little ones if you leave it around the house.

It worked amazing on my foundation brush. I could never clean it properly, down to the base of the hairs, because foundations and primers always used to remain stuck among the hairs especially in the middle of the brush. Leftover makeup is quite gross and can breed a ton of germs if left uncleaned for a longer time; it also hardens, gets even more difficult to clean and affects the quality of the bristles and the adhesive. Boo.

I had to only spray this little miracle worker and the foundation residue just started pouring out of the bristles with no rubbing/touching of the brush whatsoever:

It gets dispersed in a bit of a foamy consistency when you spray it on; however it's runny, since it's liquid (duh) so careful not to stain your clothes:

The thing about this product is it's strength, as I said. It cleans everything, leaving the brushes squeaky clean yet soft at the same time.

Since it's designed for objects that come into contact with children, it has some ingredients that counterbalance the 'harshness' of the substances inside. Really great stuff. It also cleans makeup stains- I never mentioned this but I had a white t-shirt stained with Estee Lauder's Double Wear. Good luck trying to get that foundation off of anything, even after 90 degrees repetitive washes. Just spray this on the spot and wash your clothes as you normally do- it just works wonders. Very, very happy with it.

There are two 'disadvantages' with this product:

1. The scent- it smells very strongly of baby powder. It's the scent I always associate with babies and what I imagine fresh baby laundry to smell like. It's VERY strong, and it lingers a while after you've dried your stuff. If you use fabric softener then this wouldn't be a problem; however, if you don't like the scent, it will linger onto the surfaces/objects you've cleaned and it might bother you. I like it so that's not an issue for me.

2. It can make the color of darker brushes bleed- don't get me started on my Sephora #44 Platinum (BOO!). I always had problems with that brush and everything else makes the color bleed, even face soap. However, it was a real hemorrhage with this product. The color just wouldn't stop coming out, it stained towels and sinks/floors, even the top white bristles got blue so I had to wash them again to get the hue off...not cool. However, since the Sephora Platinum brushes ALL have this problem, I think it's not the product but the brush. My foundation brush didn't have this problem, so was the case with all my other brushes. If you're using something cheaper, it's almost certain the color will bleed. If you use MAC, test it on a couple of bristles first. You never know. 

However, it looks like it conditions the bristles as well, I didn't have to apply conditioner on them or anything else. 

If you don't have this brand, don't wanna buy it or just have something else you trust, I still think it's useful to get a generic baby disinfectant for your brushes, just to make sure you have cleaned and disinfected them thoroughly. Next time you give your brushes a bath remember to check in the middle of the bunch of bristles, as close to the base as possible- if you notice lighter areas, or residue leftover, that means your cleanser didn't do its job properly and maybe you should change brands or get this little baby instead. Highly useful to me. Not going to stop using it, ever. 

How I store my (used) false lashes:

Take a generic blush/powder, anything that has an extra compartment/that little plastic divider for the brush that comes with it, or the mirror:

Pull up the little 'wall', remove the brush (they're usually bad quality, weirdly shaped thus useless) and place your lashes on the pan. Gently press on the base of the lashes to make sure it will slightly attach to that bottom:

My blush (a no-name that I still like) came with a little mirror and a terrible brush I threw away on the spot. It's perfect for me because I always reuse my lashes and I never put them back in their bulky, uncomfortable to carry or prone to damage (cardboard!) boxes. This way I can always carry the lashes around, either for me or if I'm doing someone's makeup, and I can see all of them and choose accordingly. It really works and it's so easy and simple I slapped myself for not having thought about this earlier! The plastic packaging will also protect your lashes from humidity or other damage since it's a hard material, and you're also closing the lid and putting it in your bag/bag pocket. Crisis submerged! 

Next post- how I reuse my lashes and how I clean them (DO NOT clean them with alcohol! grr!)

Things I love this summer (part 1)

Just a few things, most of them old 're-finds'. And the Nivea chapstick!

Make Up Store Microshadow in Ghetto 

The best eye/brow shadow ever, pigmented and LARGE. It comes at a fraction of the price you'd normally pay for a MAC one. Too bad I expect the brand to be available in Sweden only...

It's very soft and natural, the color is fantastic for brows, as eyeliner (i don't use black...) or as a plain matte eyeshadow. I'd compare it to MAC's Espresso, only with fewer 'red' undertones (from the chocolate tint that one has). It's perfect! 

Make Up Store 'Ghetto' microshadow

I got this amount of product by only touching the pan- it's really pigmented and a little goes a very, very long way. Very soft, yet not silky- it doesn't pick up too much on the brush or gets dusty once you swirl the brush in the pan.

This is MAC Espresso:

Stars'n Rockets blog 

Looks lighter in the pan but the orange undertones are far stronger. Espresso on the brows:

You either must have a light hand, light eyebrows (mousy blonde) or mix it with something ashy...I can't see how otherwise. Anyways, the product is very popular so I can't say it isn't good at what it does, it's just that sometimes one can find 'better dupes' at lower prices. That's my opinion. 

Helena Rubinstein Illumination Loose Powder

The best powder, loose or pressed, I have ever used (notice how little I have left :( ).  Did my friend's makeup on her wedding day and she looked spectacular. The powder illuminates the skin, sets the makeup and doesn't make your skin look cracked...which is a first. It's translucent but it has some tonality, available in 5 shades (I think). On the website it says it's enriched with 'optical pearlisers' for a glowy and healthy effect. It really works wonders, I suggest everyone to try and get their hands on a sample..I use it in nr 05 Light, and had it in 02 as well but gave that one away since it was too rosy for my skintone. 

Nivea Fruity Shine chapstick in Strawberry

The effect after wiping the lips

Very hard to find (Cherry, Honey and Classic are always on the shelves, not this baby). I adore the tint it gives the lips, very natural yet 'blushed', just like a strawberry. It's very hard to find a lipstick/lipgloss that would mimic the color of strawberries since they are all either cold-toned (fuchsia pinks) or orange/scarlet..which isn't bad, but I wanted something strawberry-ish! 

Been cruising makeup stores and supermarket aisles for ever until I saw this baby right by the cashier's...hello lover! I absolutely love the texture, the color, the scent (it has a pleasant taste as well, no plastic-bad blueberry juice like every other 'fruity' lipgloss/chapstick has), the smoothness and the hydrating effect. Comes with an SPF of 10 as well.

It's not extremely cheap, but not expensive either, so if you just want gorgeous lips without all the fuss, I suggest this product, combined with a lipliner (currently using Rimmel's East End Snob and Lancome's Caramel). It's going to be gorgeous and very Lolita-esque (kissed lips!), and it's REALLY pigmented for a chapstick (more pigmented than a lipgloss, obviously less color than with a lipstick). 

Maybelline Super Stay 24h Concealer

I use it as an eyelid primer and it works wonders, my makeup doesn't budge. I got the wrong shade (03, the darkest beige) which is too yellow for me so I can't really use it under the eyes. It's also a bit drying, which makes it a perfect tool to hide some blemishes. I probably shouldn't be using it on the eyelids, but they tend to get oily so I guess the dry effect cancels itself during the day...great eyeshadow primer! 

Veet Warm Wax

This is great for summer. I'll tell you why:

-I always wax my upper lip. The tiniest hair will get stuck in foundation and the more, the merrier- you end up looking like you have a mustache. If you're a brunette, even worse. I think every woman should wax their upper lip...the hair will not grow stronger or darker, but weaker and slower since you're yanking it out from its root and not only cutting off its surface. But that's just my take on the issue. However, girls with bleached facial hair look horrifying..so I personally suggest what my beautician said, just wax it...in two years maximum it won't grow back at all. 

-Bikini lines, especially if you're going to the seaside: salted water, chlorine and all those substances are known to irritate the hell out of the delicate skin or the upper thighs/bikini lines/inner thighs. If you're going on holiday and you're planning on shaving, think about the fact that if you're going straight into the water, you'll come out full of red dots; if you wait for a day (I tried waiting for 8 hours, didn't work), the hair is going to start growing back though it's (yet) unnoticeable. By this stage you can feel it already so no silk smooth legs. So you have to do it over and over again. Not nice. 

I strongly suggest girls, especially brunettes, to wax, since it's a healthy and perfect method of getting rid of body/face hair without paying a ton of $ if you can't afford laser/pulsed light/whatever else there is out there. I never shave on my upper legs/inner thighs/bikini, for fear of ingrown hairs (that always pop up when you go on holiday..especially when you swim/sweat) which look horrible in that area.

This wax is great because:

-it's not real bees wax. It's a combination of sugars and other substances that make it not that sticky as bees wax, easier to handle, with a higher boiling point (so you don't get burned as easily if you're a novice). 

-it does a great job at removing unwanted hair, from the thickest to peach fuzz. Really good for sensitive skin (me and some of my friends have been using this on the face as well with no problems whatsoever).

-it's hydrosoluble, which means it dissolves in water. Any drops/spots/traces can be cleaned really easily and fast.

-comes with a set of reusable strips (since it's hydrosoluble, you just let the used strips in water and in 20 mins they're ready to be dried and used again). 

-comes with a cute thermo sensitive applicator that 'tells' you when it's too hot or good to use

- if you're handy enough, you can apply it in a thicker layer (it doesn't crack no matter for how long you leave it on the skin, unlike bees wax that starts chipping if left for more than 2-3 mins) and then yank it with your fingers if you wanna save the product (of course, if you're waxing fuzz). 

-you can warm in it in the microwave. Super fast and easy!

Summer foundations

Nivea Beauty Lift, Vichy Normaderm and Estee Lauder Double Wear. Because they're so resistant and don't budge in heat/water/sweat etc. Will review the Normaderm very soon! 

Chanel Vitalumiere Satin Smoothing Creme Makeup Review

I'm finally back on track with a wonderful product I've been wanting to review for ever, since it's less popular than the 'classic' Chanel Vitalumiere, which I tried and didn't love. Not the case with this one. 

Price: I was fortunate enough not to pay anything for this baby since I got it as a present from a friend. I guess the price is around $ 50, which isn't cheap at all. However, there are some props with this specific type of foundation which clearly make up for the bucks you pay.

Packaging: I really like it, but it's not ergonomic. The squared glass jar looks beautifully, very retro for a foundation since it doesn't come in the typical bottle with a pump. I like this packaging more than anything else, regardless of the fact that it's a pain to carry it around for touch ups. The thing is...you don't need any with this baby.

Shades: It comes in 9 shades, beautifully pigmented and extremely realistic. I've always praised other foundations, especially my beloved Estee Laude Double Wear, for their pigmentation, coverage, endurance, etc, but none comes close when it comes to shades and their adaptability. Most of the shades available on the European/US markets are beige-toned, and the ones catering to rosier complexions are demure and very skin-like. I have mine in 20 Clair, and had the classic Vitalumiere foundation (the one in the bottle) in 30 Cendre (I think it was 'Shell' in English). They are pretty much the same thing- the same undertone basis, the exact same 'color', Clair being a little bit lighter than Cendre. Very nicely executed replica, since it's quite difficult to find consecutive shades that are really a scale and not a pallet. 

I think Clair suits anyone with a lighter complexion- NW 20-30, even 35 (in summer, when tanned), or NC 20-25. It has beige undertones but neither orange nor yellow, just 'cream'. 

Another huge prop of this foundation (perhaps given by its consistency as well as the shade's potential) is the chromatic adaptability- it doesn't suit my skin 100% (what foundation does it to the degree of perfect?), but it manages to blend in perfectly to the point where I can't tell where I have applied it and if I need to blend it in my neck/hairline. Awesome. This is prop number 2, it's never happened to me before, with any other foundation, not to this degree. Really impressed by it. 

Consistency: creamy. Like a face cream, think Nivea Visage. Doesn't run, doesn't dry up fast. It's really beautiful to look at, since it gives the impression of a luxurious product.

Honestly, that's all you need for half a face. I was very surprised since this foundation is identical in terms of consistency with Nivea Beauty Lift, but seems to 'multiply itself' when applied. 

I did my makeup using a normal foundation brush, as opposed to Chanel's brush indicated on their website (big surprise, right). It worked wonders. 

I've always been the eye-rolling one while reading hundreds of reviews where the ladies praised various foundations, or even makeup brushes, claiming it cuts back on the quantity they use. In my case, I need two pumps on average, and another extra half pump for the undereye area and various spots/discolorations. With this foundation, I can happily say I have entered that 'I Only Need a Little' category.

Application: Smooth like nothing else, it works beautifully with anything- fingers, sponges, flat brushes, kabuki brushes (when I'm in a hurry), even with my stubborn Sephora #44 stippling brush, and I never got that one to work with anything, EVER. I guess it's the consistency combined with the strong pigmentation that allows for such a small quantity and a beautiful finish. I prefer using it with a flat brush, because I don't like getting my fingers dirty, and a sponge would suck up too much product. I also like the dewy finish, which doesn't quite happen when a sponge is involved.

Coverage: Five stars. The foundation is allegedly medium coverage, I find it to be full. Without the mask effect. No pores, no lines, no caking up. It's creamy and allows for building it up in as many layers as you please, without getting messy if used on primer, anti-shine gels, even powder. It's simply wonderful. 

Below are some photos taken at various moments of the day, with or without flash, in natural shade or lighting. 

Natural light, at noon, just blush on the cheeks (no powder)

Natural light, in shade, right after application (nothing else on top)

Natural light, opposing the sun (that's why my skin looks reddish), after 5 hours of dancing. Concealer under the eyes and a bit of blush on the cheeks. No powder on the face (just the hairline and lower chin).

Finish: Four stars. It has a very dewy finish than can feel oily, but it looks glowy. It usually happens the other way around with everything else I ever tried- you get an oil slick on your face while the product claims 'glowiness from within'. My skin is mixed, and I wore this in the middle of July for a wedding- it lasted beautifully throughout the night, with a bit of powder (Chanel pressed powder, review coming up very soon) applied mostly on the hairline and around the mouth (dancing and eating involved, thus extra measures had to be taken). It doesn't melt, it doesn't get cakey or sticky if you sweat (especially on the forehead or nose), and it doesn't stain. If you set it with a bit of powder, then you have an 8 hour guarantee. It also has an SPF of 15 and photographs beautifully.

In shadow, no flash light, after 8 hours.  

Right after the application, natural light, facing the window :) Just concealer (Clinique) under the eyes and blush.

However, it depends from complexion to complexion. My friend (the one who gave it to me) has tried it herself and cannot understand why I like it- on her skin it gets messy, gunky and basically dissolves in tiny balls around her cheeks and nose. She has normal skin with a bit of dryness- so she's the perfect choice for this foundation, according to the manufacturer. Many reviews warn about this foundation and oily complexions, and praise it as being the Holy Grail of dry or more mature skins. In her case, it just didn't work out, so the only flaw (and a major one) would be that it's a trial and error issue...which doesn't come in super handy when you have to pay $50 for the bottle. 

Overall: A fantastic product I intend to use for special occasions only. A little goes a long way, so those special occasions might come up every day. Since it's so pricy, I'll just use it wisely. Definitely going to repurchase this and not the typical Vitalumiere, which was a disappointment.

A short comparison between the Chanel Vitalumiere Creme Makeup and the Chanel Vitalumiere Fluid Makeup

-identical shades

-three of four times more coverage of the Creme v. the Fluid

-better finish of the Creme. The Fluid gets soaked in, looks very good and natural but tends to disappear around 3 hours after the application unless heavily set with powder. You need much more Fluid to cover what the Creme does with the tiniest amount

-endurance- the Fluid doesn't last nearly as long as the Creme. I'd say 3 hours v. 8-10 hours.

-the Fluid has a definite advantage in the packaging department; however, I'd rather carry a bulky bottle or depot it in something else than getting stuck with the Fluid. After all, it's about different densities of the products- that's why the 30 g of the Creme beats the 30 ml of the Fluid.

-the Creme will last you many months, daily use, while the Fluid lasts several weeks i assume (I returned mine after two uses, which amounted to 8 pumps. Ouch). You're not paying for water after all (70% of the Fluid) but for something more consistent (Creme).

-the finish is identical, minus the 'sleaking' part the Fluid has. They both look the same when applied, but the actual effect is different with the Creme.

I strongly, strongly recommend this foundation if you like the classic Vitalumiere, it's the same thing only ten times better. 

HAIR. Mine.

Didn't quite know how to spin this- hair care? products? it's nothing spectacular, since I'm definitely not a hair freak, no new avant-garde products to talk about, just current stuff I am using, why am I happy with it, the hair trimming ritual and how to get over (or not) the innate fear of the overzealous hairdresser. 

In my humble opinion, the perfect hair looks like this:

It's not too big, not too flat, looks healthy, the color isn't too light or too dark, hence increased color-wise manageability (easy to darken/lighten), the texture is wonderful, looks glossy without appearing too fake or oily, and the waves are just delicious. 

I have that hair. Long, thick, naturally shiny, and a tad longer at its present state. However, my biggest problem comes from two sources, one, that I've been coloring it for years and I'm currently engaged in the tantalizing process of 'waiting' for my hair to grow 'out', since I truly want to go back to my natural color (which would look amazing with some highlights....), and second, the shape. I have 'long' hair, quite shapeless...and since I'm not Cheryl Cole, I can't afford a stylist to take care of it on a daily basis and give it that wonderful shape that can be molded into a thousand new looks. So I have to do it myself. Which is quite a chore. 

I've recently embarked into a 'save my hair' routine that I intend to stick to, and find myself quite comfortable with. 

Shampoo:

Dove Intense Repair (Damage Therapy) Micro Serum Shampoo

A ton of reviews on Makeup Alley. Some of them will deem this shampoo controversial, since it apparently caused hair loss (!!) and changes of color (???). I have absolutely no idea if those claims are simply bamboozled or they actually happened, however, I tend to go with hail Dove every time I purchase one of their products. I have always trusted their stuff for several reasons- they don't engage in glossy, over the top advertising, because they don't need to. Their 'real women' campaign isn't the brightest out there, I have to admit, but the overall quality of their products is legendary, at least in my case. I first fell in love with Dove when I started using their classic soap, in both solid and liquid form. The stuff is simply the best soap out there and I feel more comfortable using it on my face than any other specifically created 'miracle' gel/wash/lotion out there. I also find it extremely delicate and much less harsher than baby washes, soaps and gels. Enough with the soap already. 

The shampoo, well, does what it says it will. Cleans very gently and leaves hair incredibly soft. The scent is milky yet clean, the classic slightly powdered Dove scent. It lathers well, cleans very well, doesn't strip my hair of its natural moisture and even right after shampooing, before applying conditioner, when I usually have very coarse, dry hair waiting to be soaked in some form of nourishment, I just don't get this feeling. 

It's not expensive, the packaging is clean and neutral, easy to find in all drugstores and beauty supply shops, it feels like I'm washing my hair with a darn efficient conditioner. Highly recommended. 

Claims to improve overall hair elasticity and condition by actually repairing split ends and other damage, preventing new hairs from deteriorating and dramatically decrease hair breakage by guaranteeing five times less split ends. The version I use, purchased in Europe, is based on the Fibre Actives technology plus the Micro Moisture Serum. I think my hair actually deserves this pampering. Have used it twice only so far, with actual results. It didn't patch up my split ends (yet), but it did leave my hair softer and a tad easier to manage. No more massive tangling, which i guess is the main culprit for hair breakage. 

Hair conditioner/mask/treatment:

I don't condition anymore but use a hair treatment and a mask every time I was my hair. Decided it was time to do so after watching AllThatGlitters21's Youtube hair routine and noticed she's doing the same thing to prevent her new hair extensions from deteriorating. Very good idea, especially if your hair is coarse, relaxed, recently permed or damaged from chemical treatments and extensive dying. 

I am currently using, and have been, for about two months, Aussie's Take the Heat 3-Minute Miracle treatment, combined with L'Oreal's Elvive/Elseve Anti-Breakage hair mask. I sometimes use one of them only, alternating with each wash, or both at the same time. 

I have to say the Aussie treatment hasn't been as efficient as their classic 3 Minute Miracle; the 'take the heat' part must have implied a change in formulation that my hair doesn't necessarily benefit from. It does protect from heat, my hair remaining glossy even after using a hot iron/straightener, however it hasn't improved softness, strength or aspect in general.

I prefer L'Oreal's mask, as strange as it might seem, given the fact that it's a drugstore product that costs much less than the Aussie one (5 or 6 € as opposed to 17 €). I like that my hair feels instantly softer the moment I apply the mask, is less tangled, smells divinely (citrusy fresh, yet creamy, not overbearing at all) and is left considerably softer. The mask is also thicker than the Aussie treatment, which allows for more uses, though they are both 200 ml versions. 

Serum:

Alternating between L'Oreal Liss Ultime Reflexium Thermo Soothing Oil (for use with heated styling tools) and Biosilk Silk Therapy serum. I like them both, I actually have to favor L'Oreal once again. The texture is considerably lighter than the Silk Therapy one, less sticky and heavy, the scent is more pleasant (vanilla and flowers, as opposed to the old lady rose perfume Biosilk has), and the manageability of the hair is superior. Once again, I strongly believe the Biosilk serum is a treatment, and should be used as such, as opposed to the L'Oreal one which is designed for more frequent use. 

However, the best thing that's every worked for my hair, in the serum department, was a product from the Swedish brand Björn Axen. 

It worked as everything my hair needed, all rolled into one- heat protective serum, shine serum, smoothing and anti-frizz, color conditioner and, most important of all, reconstructor for damaged hair. I still haven't found something to replace it, given the fact that it was the second thing (after scissors) that really worked on getting me rid of damaged ends (I don't know how it worked, perhaps it contains silicone, or something else, I couldn't care less since it did much more than what it claimed). However, I am currently abroad with no chance of purchasing it, so I am going to use my current stash and then get my hands on it the moment I get back to Sweden. Highly, highly recommended. 

Hair tools:

Boar bristle brush- the best of the best. The natural boar bristles really untangle my long, thick hair without breaking it, they remove excess oil and distribute it along the entire length of my tresses, lifting any buildup while massaging the scalp. Easy to clean, gentle (stay away from metal bristle brushes....not to mention the plastic ones, those are the worst), a true miracle worker. I have two large brushes I use simultaneously; though it's common knowledge one mustn't brush wet hair since it's prone to breakage, I have to say on my wet hair, these brushes have worked more efficiently than the Tangle Teezer, with no hair damage at all. 

Straightener- I am using a common, (white) ceramic hair straightener purchased online from a British company; I think it has a 'girly' name, however it was embossed on the box and not on the tool itself; it's of medium width, which I find to be perfect for my hair, and it can also be used for curling since it has rounded edges. Not planning on buying a new one anytime soon. 

Hair curler- my good ol' Remington. Planning on getting a new one since the barrel isn't as large as I'd like, nowadays I'm in the mood for large romantic curls. However, I'm kinda undecided since my hair texture prevents defined curls to stay intact no matter how much hairspray I use. 

Blow drying- Currently, none. Given the warm weather I usually prefer to let my hair dry naturally during summers, which makes a difference. I was surprised (should say appalled) when I noticed blow drying my hair didn't cause dryness or split ends as it happens with the majority; instead, it made my hair frail and contributed to minor hair loss. Ever since I stopped using the blow dryer my hair isn't smoother, or un-frizzed (though has less volume and good shape than after a good blowdry job)  but doesn't fall as much as it used to. Holey moley. I am planning on keeping up with this good habit for as long as I can- I remember that two summers ago, it helped my hair grow faster, thicker, a massive amount of baby hairs sprouting everywhere, and it improved the overall resistance. 

Plant pomades/tinctures

Oh yes. That's the 'special' thing I wanted to talk about.

Having massively thick hair, and not being a fan of the dry shampoo (too expensive for the one-day lifespan I can get away with, matte effect, staining 'qualities'), plant tinctures are the best thing that works for me whenever I experience oily hair and don't want to shampoo. 

Tinctures are solutions one can easily prepare by themselves by macerating (soaking in liquid for a while, in order to soften the material and extract the substances it contains) plants into alcohol. Some recipes (or just informative material)- here. 

I don't prepare them myself but buy them from my favorite 'holistic' drugstore. The best hair 'potion' (tincture) for hair is the one with stinging nettle. 

Stinging nettle contains an amazing array of nutrients, such as iron, vitamin A, C, D, E, F, K and vitamin P, calcium, magnesium and zinc. It fortifies the root, freshens up the scalp, removes buildup and dead skin cells and improves microcirculation at root level. 

The hair is nourished by capillaries, extremely thin blood vessels. In time, and due to extensive 'work' done to the hair (brushing, washing, coloring, blow drying, curling, pulling, etc) the root gets 'aggressed' and needs special care one can provide through both inner nourishment (a healthy diet, rich in fatty acids and vitamins) and also through external care. 

Back to the tinctures- these alcohol-based potions are a miracle for oily to extremely oily hair, being indicated even for dry/normal hair if it hasn't been washed for several days, just enough for it to get naturally coated with sebum. The alcohol in the tincture could have a slightly drying effect if applied on a clean scalp. 

I like to soak my fingers in the tincture or directly apply it, if it comes in a bottle with a dripper. Given the thickness of my hair, I usually have to vigorously massage my scalp to make sure the buildup is being removed by the tincture and the lotion is being properly absorbed. DO NOT do this if you have sensitive skin/scalp, suffer from allergies or have lesions/moles/birth marks on your scalp!!!

I find it a 100% natural and effective way to clean my hair without having to shampoo it while also helping it absorb all the nutrients contained in the plant (chamomile, nettle, sage, etc). In time, it strengthens the roots and prevents/helps cure hair loss.


THE Haircut

That's something everybody must get yet we all fear it like the devil. I've had my share of negative experiences so I know what it feels like to have to wait for your hair to grow out and pray for the best the next time you knock on a parlor's door...tips for avoiding disasters:

-don't try a stylist if you haven't seen previous work or glowing recommendations. As with clothes and makeup, don't be shy and ask away if someone is sporting a beautiful coif and you're dying to know who the stylist was.

-if you only need a bit of a trim to remove split ends, then you might as well trust yourself or a friend. The longer the hair, the better, since you won't have a shape to ruin and it's quite easy to grab and chop even by yourself.

-I suggest going to the hair salon with clean, straightened hair so the stylist knows exactly what your shape is; even if you're going to have it changed, or cut shorter, dramatically improved, it's always a good thing to let the hairdresser have an idea of what your hair really looks like (particularly for wavy or curly hair). If you're only popping in for a trim, it's nice to save a couple of $ on hair wash and styling since you obviously don't need that. Having clean, workable hair is also polite for the stylist- you don't want someone to feel uncomfortable touching unwashed hair.

-if you're doing it yourself, there are tons of ways to achieve it. Split ends removal-wise, all you need is a good pair of scissors (try getting the hair ones, not the paper ones), wet hair and a good brush/comb. Brush your hair downwards, in your usual way of styling (parted sideways, in the middle, etc) and just cut the ends at the length you desire. Don't worry, the more you cut, the faster it will grow- the little capillaries that nourish our hairs are so tiny yet must support a long hair throughout his life; you're making it easier for the nutrients to distribute along a shorter portion, you're removing old, dried up hair, making 'space' for new, healthier strands.

I have been cutting my own hair, or with help from friends, for about five or six years. It's time I went to the hair salon and got an actual shape. It's going to be trimming only, and a bit of a fringe. My hair doesn't need  complete reconstruction but just a bit of a spruce. Current plans- changing my hair color. I'm going lighter, possible blonde :) yay!

This is the color (highlights and lowlights, very natural) I am looking for:

I love Kate Moss' haircut....the color is not perfect, however the hairstyle is to die for....loves it!