Saturday, May 21, 2011

HAIR. Mine.

Didn't quite know how to spin this- hair care? products? it's nothing spectacular, since I'm definitely not a hair freak, no new avant-garde products to talk about, just current stuff I am using, why am I happy with it, the hair trimming ritual and how to get over (or not) the innate fear of the overzealous hairdresser. 

In my humble opinion, the perfect hair looks like this:


It's not too big, not too flat, looks healthy, the color isn't too light or too dark, hence increased color-wise manageability (easy to darken/lighten), the texture is wonderful, looks glossy without appearing too fake or oily, and the waves are just delicious. 

I have that hair. Long, thick, naturally shiny, and a tad longer at its present state. However, my biggest problem comes from two sources, one, that I've been coloring it for years and I'm currently engaged in the tantalizing process of 'waiting' for my hair to grow 'out', since I truly want to go back to my natural color (which would look amazing with some highlights....), and second, the shape. I have 'long' hair, quite shapeless...and since I'm not Cheryl Cole, I can't afford a stylist to take care of it on a daily basis and give it that wonderful shape that can be molded into a thousand new looks. So I have to do it myself. Which is quite a chore. 

I've recently embarked into a 'save my hair' routine that I intend to stick to, and find myself quite comfortable with. 

Shampoo:


Dove Intense Repair (Damage Therapy) Micro Serum Shampoo

A ton of reviews on Makeup Alley. Some of them will deem this shampoo controversial, since it apparently caused hair loss (!!) and changes of color (???). I have absolutely no idea if those claims are simply bamboozled or they actually happened, however, I tend to go with hail Dove every time I purchase one of their products. I have always trusted their stuff for several reasons- they don't engage in glossy, over the top advertising, because they don't need to. Their 'real women' campaign isn't the brightest out there, I have to admit, but the overall quality of their products is legendary, at least in my case. I first fell in love with Dove when I started using their classic soap, in both solid and liquid form. The stuff is simply the best soap out there and I feel more comfortable using it on my face than any other specifically created 'miracle' gel/wash/lotion out there. I also find it extremely delicate and much less harsher than baby washes, soaps and gels. Enough with the soap already. 

The shampoo, well, does what it says it will. Cleans very gently and leaves hair incredibly soft. The scent is milky yet clean, the classic slightly powdered Dove scent. It lathers well, cleans very well, doesn't strip my hair of its natural moisture and even right after shampooing, before applying conditioner, when I usually have very coarse, dry hair waiting to be soaked in some form of nourishment, I just don't get this feeling. 

It's not expensive, the packaging is clean and neutral, easy to find in all drugstores and beauty supply shops, it feels like I'm washing my hair with a darn efficient conditioner. Highly recommended. 

Claims to improve overall hair elasticity and condition by actually repairing split ends and other damage, preventing new hairs from deteriorating and dramatically decrease hair breakage by guaranteeing five times less split ends. The version I use, purchased in Europe, is based on the Fibre Actives technology plus the Micro Moisture Serum. I think my hair actually deserves this pampering. Have used it twice only so far, with actual results. It didn't patch up my split ends (yet), but it did leave my hair softer and a tad easier to manage. No more massive tangling, which i guess is the main culprit for hair breakage. 


Hair conditioner/mask/treatment:


I don't condition anymore but use a hair treatment and a mask every time I was my hair. Decided it was time to do so after watching AllThatGlitters21's Youtube hair routine and noticed she's doing the same thing to prevent her new hair extensions from deteriorating. Very good idea, especially if your hair is coarse, relaxed, recently permed or damaged from chemical treatments and extensive dying. 
I am currently using, and have been, for about two months, Aussie's Take the Heat 3-Minute Miracle treatment, combined with L'Oreal's Elvive/Elseve Anti-Breakage hair mask. I sometimes use one of them only, alternating with each wash, or both at the same time. 

I have to say the Aussie treatment hasn't been as efficient as their classic 3 Minute Miracle; the 'take the heat' part must have implied a change in formulation that my hair doesn't necessarily benefit from. It does protect from heat, my hair remaining glossy even after using a hot iron/straightener, however it hasn't improved softness, strength or aspect in general.

I prefer L'Oreal's mask, as strange as it might seem, given the fact that it's a drugstore product that costs much less than the Aussie one (5 or 6 € as opposed to 17 €). I like that my hair feels instantly softer the moment I apply the mask, is less tangled, smells divinely (citrusy fresh, yet creamy, not overbearing at all) and is left considerably softer. The mask is also thicker than the Aussie treatment, which allows for more uses, though they are both 200 ml versions. 

Serum:



Alternating between L'Oreal Liss Ultime Reflexium Thermo Soothing Oil (for use with heated styling tools) and Biosilk Silk Therapy serum. I like them both, I actually have to favor L'Oreal once again. The texture is considerably lighter than the Silk Therapy one, less sticky and heavy, the scent is more pleasant (vanilla and flowers, as opposed to the old lady rose perfume Biosilk has), and the manageability of the hair is superior. Once again, I strongly believe the Biosilk serum is a treatment, and should be used as such, as opposed to the L'Oreal one which is designed for more frequent use. 

However, the best thing that's every worked for my hair, in the serum department, was a product from the Swedish brand Björn Axen. 

It worked as everything my hair needed, all rolled into one- heat protective serum, shine serum, smoothing and anti-frizz, color conditioner and, most important of all, reconstructor for damaged hair. I still haven't found something to replace it, given the fact that it was the second thing (after scissors) that really worked on getting me rid of damaged ends (I don't know how it worked, perhaps it contains silicone, or something else, I couldn't care less since it did much more than what it claimed). However, I am currently abroad with no chance of purchasing it, so I am going to use my current stash and then get my hands on it the moment I get back to Sweden. Highly, highly recommended. 


Hair tools:


Boar bristle brush- the best of the best. The natural boar bristles really untangle my long, thick hair without breaking it, they remove excess oil and distribute it along the entire length of my tresses, lifting any buildup while massaging the scalp. Easy to clean, gentle (stay away from metal bristle brushes....not to mention the plastic ones, those are the worst), a true miracle worker. I have two large brushes I use simultaneously; though it's common knowledge one mustn't brush wet hair since it's prone to breakage, I have to say on my wet hair, these brushes have worked more efficiently than the Tangle Teezer, with no hair damage at all. 

Straightener- I am using a common, (white) ceramic hair straightener purchased online from a British company; I think it has a 'girly' name, however it was embossed on the box and not on the tool itself; it's of medium width, which I find to be perfect for my hair, and it can also be used for curling since it has rounded edges. Not planning on buying a new one anytime soon. 

Hair curler- my good ol' Remington. Planning on getting a new one since the barrel isn't as large as I'd like, nowadays I'm in the mood for large romantic curls. However, I'm kinda undecided since my hair texture prevents defined curls to stay intact no matter how much hairspray I use. 


Blow drying- Currently, none. Given the warm weather I usually prefer to let my hair dry naturally during summers, which makes a difference. I was surprised (should say appalled) when I noticed blow drying my hair didn't cause dryness or split ends as it happens with the majority; instead, it made my hair frail and contributed to minor hair loss. Ever since I stopped using the blow dryer my hair isn't smoother, or un-frizzed (though has less volume and good shape than after a good blowdry job)  but doesn't fall as much as it used to. Holey moley. I am planning on keeping up with this good habit for as long as I can- I remember that two summers ago, it helped my hair grow faster, thicker, a massive amount of baby hairs sprouting everywhere, and it improved the overall resistance. 



Plant pomades/tinctures

Oh yes. That's the 'special' thing I wanted to talk about.

Having massively thick hair, and not being a fan of the dry shampoo (too expensive for the one-day lifespan I can get away with, matte effect, staining 'qualities'), plant tinctures are the best thing that works for me whenever I experience oily hair and don't want to shampoo. 

Tinctures are solutions one can easily prepare by themselves by macerating (soaking in liquid for a while, in order to soften the material and extract the substances it contains) plants into alcohol. Some recipes (or just informative material)- here. 

I don't prepare them myself but buy them from my favorite 'holistic' drugstore. The best hair 'potion' (tincture) for hair is the one with stinging nettle

Stinging nettle contains an amazing array of nutrients, such as iron, vitamin A, C, D, E, F, K and vitamin P, calcium, magnesium and zinc. It fortifies the root, freshens up the scalp, removes buildup and dead skin cells and improves microcirculation at root level. 

The hair is nourished by capillaries, extremely thin blood vessels. In time, and due to extensive 'work' done to the hair (brushing, washing, coloring, blow drying, curling, pulling, etc) the root gets 'aggressed' and needs special care one can provide through both inner nourishment (a healthy diet, rich in fatty acids and vitamins) and also through external care. 

Back to the tinctures- these alcohol-based potions are a miracle for oily to extremely oily hair, being indicated even for dry/normal hair if it hasn't been washed for several days, just enough for it to get naturally coated with sebum. The alcohol in the tincture could have a slightly drying effect if applied on a clean scalp. 
I like to soak my fingers in the tincture or directly apply it, if it comes in a bottle with a dripper. Given the thickness of my hair, I usually have to vigorously massage my scalp to make sure the buildup is being removed by the tincture and the lotion is being properly absorbed. DO NOT do this if you have sensitive skin/scalp, suffer from allergies or have lesions/moles/birth marks on your scalp!!!

I find it a 100% natural and effective way to clean my hair without having to shampoo it while also helping it absorb all the nutrients contained in the plant (chamomile, nettle, sage, etc). In time, it strengthens the roots and prevents/helps cure hair loss.


THE Haircut

That's something everybody must get yet we all fear it like the devil. I've had my share of negative experiences so I know what it feels like to have to wait for your hair to grow out and pray for the best the next time you knock on a parlor's door...tips for avoiding disasters:

-don't try a stylist if you haven't seen previous work or glowing recommendations. As with clothes and makeup, don't be shy and ask away if someone is sporting a beautiful coif and you're dying to know who the stylist was.

-if you only need a bit of a trim to remove split ends, then you might as well trust yourself or a friend. The longer the hair, the better, since you won't have a shape to ruin and it's quite easy to grab and chop even by yourself.

-I suggest going to the hair salon with clean, straightened hair so the stylist knows exactly what your shape is; even if you're going to have it changed, or cut shorter, dramatically improved, it's always a good thing to let the hairdresser have an idea of what your hair really looks like (particularly for wavy or curly hair). If you're only popping in for a trim, it's nice to save a couple of $ on hair wash and styling since you obviously don't need that. Having clean, workable hair is also polite for the stylist- you don't want someone to feel uncomfortable touching unwashed hair.

-if you're doing it yourself, there are tons of ways to achieve it. Split ends removal-wise, all you need is a good pair of scissors (try getting the hair ones, not the paper ones), wet hair and a good brush/comb. Brush your hair downwards, in your usual way of styling (parted sideways, in the middle, etc) and just cut the ends at the length you desire. Don't worry, the more you cut, the faster it will grow- the little capillaries that nourish our hairs are so tiny yet must support a long hair throughout his life; you're making it easier for the nutrients to distribute along a shorter portion, you're removing old, dried up hair, making 'space' for new, healthier strands.

I have been cutting my own hair, or with help from friends, for about five or six years. It's time I went to the hair salon and got an actual shape. It's going to be trimming only, and a bit of a fringe. My hair doesn't need  complete reconstruction but just a bit of a spruce. Current plans- changing my hair color. I'm going lighter, possible blonde :) yay!

This is the color (highlights and lowlights, very natural) I am looking for:

I love Kate Moss' haircut....the color is not perfect, however the hairstyle is to die for....loves it!